Yes, I have read "Under the Tuscan Sun", I even watched the movie and cried a bit. I am
that emotional . :))) There is one thing that still keeps me away from the area and it is the glamour. Just like Provence, Tuscany quickly became a competitive construction site with bigger and brighter houses, walls, and fences built weekly. Fast expensive cars roar on the dusty roads, Armani suits and Chanel sunglasses confuse the elder women in their dark long skirts while mini D&G dresses turn the heads of the men on the village squares. Yet, I don't long for this. I set on an adventure to find the hidden Tuscany. The one that is still possible even if I don't win these Chanel sunglasses on E-Bay tomorrow. :))))
If you are like me, you would be most aware of the Tuscan Golden Triangle. It's undobtedly beautiful but it's also getting quite expensive. My goal is to get the best of Tuscany without owing to the bank or my credit card company. So, I stretch my search toward the inner countryside.
I set my eyes first on Lunigiana - a historical territory of Italy which today falls within the provinces of La Spezia and Massa Carrara. While technically it is not exactly Tuscany, it is practically one step away.
http://www.lunigiana.com/en/ The region is so abundant with history that it's literally impossible to explore all sights except if you spend months there. Nothing wrong if you have the time, of course. For shorter reference you may also check the Wikipedia article on Lunigiana, it's a very good one:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lunigiana . Called "the land of 1000 castles", it will feed you with beauty and history for a couple of years ahead.
If you know Italian, here are a couple of suggested websites exploring the area:
http://www.comune.fivizzano.ms.it/ ,
http://comune.massa.ms.it/ ,
http://portale.provincia.ms.it/ . If you don't know Italian, check these if you have the time or read on my choices:
http://www.sarzana.com/en/ ,
http://www.valdimagra.com/english/default.php ,
http://www.terredilunigiana.com/eng/ .
First, to mention how you get there. Tuscany has two international airports, the Galileo Galilei International Airport in Pisa and Amerigo Vespucci Airport, also known as Peretola, in Florence. If you're driving, I'd strongly suggest renting a car. Most major world car-rental companies have offices at the airports. Pisa is generally easier because it handles most European flights and low-cost airlines will give you good prices. For these you may need to book a flight to an European capital from North America and a separate flight from there with a low-cost airline to Tuscany. Alternatively, you may fly to Rome or Napoli and get the train. It's very amusing but you will be restricted if you don't rent a car once in Tuscany. Here is the website of the Italian railways:
http://www.ferroviedellostato.it/. It's not worth buying passes if you're going to travel in Italy only because the tickets will be cheaper. I find it a bit disturbing the website is in Italian only though. Hopefully, you can manage if you choose this type of transportation.
Assuming you have safely arrived in Pisa, for example, I'm moving ahead towards the fun stuff. :)) When you're driving in any part of Italy, do be extra careful. Neither Italians, nor owners of Ferraris are known for their politeness on the road. yet, if you're a woman, rest assured you'll be treated with proper attention. :)))) The autostrades are paid but there are not many in this part of the country. The small back roads are picturesque but do plan more time because they are windy and slow. However, this is my preferred choice to explore the area. It gives you the opportunity to not only enjoy the beautiful nature, but you can also find bargains in accommodation, fruits and vegetables, and wines. Just enter a couple of distant villages and you'll see what I'm talking about.
Aside from the well known exquisite gold jewelry found on Ponte Vecchio in Florence, the red terracotta clay tiles from Impruneta, and the iron creations such as the wrought-iron beds and tables, Tuscany is also popular for its hand-carved rustic wood tables; fine Italian leather jackets and leather bags found across the center of Florence and around the Arno valley; translucent creations carved out of alabaster stone in Volterra or the colorful painted ceramic plates from Montelupo, and hand-made knives from Scarperia in the Mugello valley. All those are relatively expensive, in my opinion but if you can afford it - it's worth.
On the culinary side, Tuscany is famous for the red wines - Chianti Classico, Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Its peppery extra-virgin olive oil is absolutely great and this is something I always buy to take back home. Then there are the numerous pecorino cheeses and the cured meats such as the Cinta Senese, salame toscano or those made from local cinghiale (wild boar). Of course, you must try all kinds of fresh made pasta with different sauces and with or without seafood. Again, finding a little restaurant in a small distant village will give you best price value and often you'll get the chance to try real home made food. You can also arrange such with your hosts if you're staying in a B&B kind of place. Here is an informative website on the valley of Mugello with plenty of info on both tourism and food:
http://www.mugellotoscana.it/en/gastronomia.html
Beach lovers, here is a map and info on Tuscan beaches for you:
http://www.discovertuscany.com/what-to-do-in-tuscany/top-beaches-in-tuscany.html If you look at the north border of this map, you'll see the town of La Spezia - this is the area I was referring to speaking of Lunigiana. It's right next to Tuscany, yet much more affordable, especially in the countryside. Information on Lunigiana follows.
I'm taking La Spezia az a reference point because it will be easier to find on a map and follow me. Heading there gives you a choice between three airports - Genova, Parma or Pisa. All are connected to Lunigiana via autostrades, so you'll be able to avoid the windy roads the day you arrive and save time. If you're not renting a car, the train from Genoa to Pisa passes through La Spezia. La Spezia itself is lovely. You may decide to spend some time there. If that's so, here is info for you:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/La_Spezia ,
http://www.italyheaven.co.uk/liguria/laspezia.html , hotels:
http://www.traveleurope.it/itinerari/l/la-spezia.shtml , B&B in the area:
http://www.bed-and-breakfast-in-italy.com/town.cfm?citta=La%20Spezia&IDregione=8 , car rental:
http://www.europcar.com/car-rental-ITALY-LA_SPEZIA.html .
If you haven't decided to stay in La Spezia and you're driving, then here are more ideas. For those willing to stay on the beach line, Fezzano, Portovenere and Lerici - the last one offers a great beach as well. Couple of websites with accommodation and info:
http://www.bed-and-breakfast-in-italy.com/town_frazione.cfm?citta=Portovenere&frazione=Fezzano&IDregione=8 ,
http://www.portovenere.it/html/portovenere_site/inglese/fezzano.htm ,
http://www.italianvisits.com/liguria/lerici/ ,
http://www.rivieradellaliguria.com/en/territory.php?id_territorio=62&sezione_localita=Golfo%20dei%20Poeti - here you can check the offers in other towns nearby too. Be aware that although not Tuscany, the Riviera Linguria is not cheap.
Stepping away from the beaches and autostrades, on the other side of the main road you can find many small villages like
http://www.rivieradellaliguria.com/en/territory.php?id_territorio=62&sezione_localita=Golfo%20dei%20Poeti Giucano, for example. Here is one B&B
http://casacaracola.jimdo.com/ in Giucano and more accommodation in Fosdinovo: B&B
http://www.bed-and-breakfast-in-italy.com/town.cfm?citta=Fosdinovo&IDregione=16 ; two private rentals
http://www.holiday-rentals.co.uk/search/italy/fosdinovo/region:21507 ; extensive tourist info
http://www.terredilunigiana.com/eng/fosdinovo.php . I just want to emphasize once again that many private rentals in the small villages, especially those owned by locals, won't be listed on the web. So, having a hotel in La Spezia for a day or two and meanwhile checking the area and asking the locals will bring much better results than browsing the web. Fosdinovo has a castle, it's worth seeing.
Aulla - another spot often overlooked except on market days. Yet, it has much to offer. Check this article:
http://www.holiday-rentals.co.uk/search/italy/fosdinovo/region:21507 Either in Aulla or in neighbouring Podenzana, check the local specialty Panigacci:
http://goeurope.about.com/library/phot/bl_testaroli_1.htm Among the most interesting monuments to see in Aulla are Abbazia di San Caprasio (Saint Caprasio Abbey) and Fortezza della Brunella (Fortress of Brunella). There is a traditional "Festa Gastronomica" (gastronomic fest) held in the middle of August where you can taste some typical local courses.
Right next to Aulla is the small village of Pallerone where you can stay in this tiny resort:
http://italia.indettaglio.it/eng/toscana/alberghi_massacarrara_aulla_pallerone.html . More Pallerone but in Italian only:
http://www.pallerone.it/ . Rental cottage in Pallerone:
http://www.trails.com/rentals/property.aspx?vacation=0171464 .
Tresana, to the west of Aulla, across the Autostrada de la Cisa A 15 - check the buttons in the top menu for hotels and rentals:
http://www.valdimagra.com/english/HTML/terri/tertres.htm . B&B in Tresana
http://www.accommodationz.com/hotel_2940.html . Holiday rentals in Tresana:
http://www.holiday-rentals.co.uk/search/italy/tresana/region:21510 .
Podenzana - the castle is private, an amazing fact itself these days. ;)
http://toscana.localidautore.com/paesi/podenzana-1157.aspx . Hotel La Greppia, the restaurant is well known
http://www.venere.com/hotels/podenzana/hotel-la-greppia/ . A bit pricy compared to any B&B, not to mention rentals but it's up to you. Not my favorite as Johnny Depp used to say in "Chocolat". ;) More choices in the area around the town:
http://www.tripadvisor.in/SmartDeals-g1582946-Podenzana_Tuscany-Hotel-Deals.html . It's actually betetr to look at these because the rivers are a bit away from the town and it would be nice to be closer to the water.
General info about the castles in Tuscany and surrounding counties:
http://experience-tuscany.thriftytuscany.com/category/castles-in-tuscany/page/2 .
If you choose the Genova airport, then you may wish to explore the Piacenza area as well and here is a great place to stay in:
http://www.holidaylettings.co.uk/rentals/piacenza/128675 and a picturesque old-fashioned inn in Masero:
http://www.locandailmasero.it/eng/locanda.html .
And finally - this is very little of what you can find if you look inside the country, beyond the autostrades which usually mark the more expensive areas. And especially if you are driving. Most of the small villages are not even advertised on the web but can offer best value for your money. Enjoy. :)
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