The not-so-usual way to travel

Good morning all! It was Twitter that brought this remarkable website to our attention: http://chrisguillebeau.com/3x5/support/ . The Art Of Nonconformity offers so much information and great articles that we actually read only half of them before deciding to feature it here. The reason we are doing so is hidden in the unusual, funny, innovative way the website looks at life and travelling. We hope you enjoy reading it too.

On our usual subject - what are your top three unusual ways to travel on a gloomy, rainy, autumn afternoon? Here are ours:
1. Trip to the backyard - for all those who have a backyard with trees and flowers, don't forget to enjoy it! We put on our rain coats and rubber boots, and went for an expedition in the backyard. It all looks so different after the rain! We looked at the drops on the petals, followed the ants searching for food, climbed our big tree and listened to the water whispering in the leaves. We got all muddy, there is hard-to-clean stuff under our nails, our child covered his face in black earth and resembles a SWAT member. Our little basket is full now with treasures: coloured leaves, dried flowers, one or two herbs that survived the cool weather, a feather left by a bird, fruits from pine trees and oaks. Our afternoon will be spend arranging a "wish board" - we will put all these treasures in an old frame, top them with glass and save them forever.
2. Trip to the park - for those who live in apartments, enjoy the park folks! It offers almost the same if you only leave the alleys and hit the small roads among the trees. We watch the birds leaving or still looking for food in the lake. The squirrels get their breakfast from our bags and come so close to us! We make photos of the branches with the rain drops and red-yellowish leaves. We investigate the hidden roads, never really knowing where we're going to find ourselves in one hour. Civilized as it looks, the park still offers secrets to the searching eye. We eat there, climbed on a tree and listening to the wood. It is a different world in the heart of the everyday world we are so bore of sometimes.
3. Trip to the gardens - you know those various gardens they make in the big cities - the manicured ones with fancy plants, either botanic gardens or just designer gardens. We found they could be a hidden spot. Fewer people go there in the fall and especially when it's wet. But this is really the time when you can inhale the aroma of the foreign petals, whisper to them your winter dreams and wishes, breathe deep the humid, enriched air around these travellers who came from all parts of the world to your city. Celebrate them for their beauty and courage. Our favourite thing to do - take some great music with us, sit under the majestic plants on the wet ground, and listen.

The most important thing: make it look like a trip! Pack your sandwiches, get the picnic basket, blankets, clothes, etc. Even a trip to the living room can be exciting on a gloomy afternoon. We are currently setting our small tent in front of the TV, I will make the food, all packed in little boxes, the movie will be shown in one hour, the blankets are to be on the floor, the little one is stuffing his backpack with toys... :) We are setting off to the living room!

Beautiful Romania

*Photo courtesy of www.viamigo.com

We continue our journey through the Balkans. A little reminder from the past - New York Times on Bulgaria: http://travel.nytimes.com/2006/04/30/travel/30next.html ; on Transylvania, Romania: http://travel.nytimes.com/2006/08/27/travel/27next.html?scp=7&sq=romania&st=tcse ; and on Montenegro: http://travel.nytimes.com/travel/guides/europe/montenegro/overview.html?scp=1-sub&sq=montenegro&st=tcse .

We are heading to Romania today. A country with ancient origins like most in the region, and with not so easy past, Romania has been called by many "Beautiful Romania" while Bucharest was known in the 18th-early 19th century as the "Little Wien". A lot has changed since then but many older buildings can still be seen, especially houses of wealthy manifacturers built two-three centuries ago, hiding behind rows of plane and chestnut trees, surrounded by iron gates and fences. Look carefully.

Naturally, Transylvania is the most famous child of the country thanks to its Drakula resident. But Romania has much more to offer. If you like the seaside, go to some of the resorts - Mamaia for example, http://www.mamaia.com/ . Don't expect mad luxury or fancy hotels, many of the facilities were built during the communism and carry the marks of this architectural style but the sand is soft, the shore is beautiful, and the people are warm. Other seaside resorts to check are Eforie, Neptun, Jupiter, Venus, Saturn and Mangalia. Don't forget the mineral water and mud and visit some of the numerous spas in the resorts. For more info about the seaside resorts, visit this website: http://www.infolitoral.ro/ .

Next, don't miss the fabulous castles and fortresses which best illustrate the medieval heritage of the country:

Biertan Fortified Church (part of UNESCO World Heritage) in Transylvania – Central Romania. Nearby large town: Sighisora. http://www.biertan.ro/ .

Bran CastleLocation: Transylvania – Central Romania. Nearby large town: Brasov. http://www.bran-castle.com/

Calnic Fortified Church (part of UNESCO World Heritage). Location: Transylvania – Central Romania. Nearby large town: Sibiu.

Corvinesti Castle. Location: Hunedoara – Central Romania. http://www.castelulcorvinilor.ro/ .

Fagaras Fortress. Location: Transylvania – Central Romania. Nearby large towns: Sibiu and Brasov.

Peles Castle. Location: Sinaia – Southern Romania. Nearby large towns: Brasov and Bucuresti.

There are hundreds of others, really. If you decide to visit a particular area, just send us an e-mail and we'll provide you with more names, sitghts and locations to visit.

Also, it is a must to visit the seven walled medieval towns: Bistrita, Brasov, Cluj Napoca, Medias, Sebes, Sibiu, and Sighisoara. These are fantastic locations, many films have been made there, Google them for some images and to get an idea how beautiful they are!

And for even better Romanian experience, hit the road to the Painted Monasteries, an amazing sight and treasured world heritage. The monasteries are: Arbore Monastery, Humor Monastery, Moldovita Monastery, Patrauti Church, Probota Monastery, Saint George’s Church/ Saint John the New Monastery, Sucevita Monastery, Voronet Monastery (probably the most famous one). Some of the things you should know and consider if visiting the monasteries: they are easily accessible from both Suceava - with its direct airline and rail links with Bucharest, and Iasi - offering daily flights from Vienna and Bucharest. You can probably make it in one day but better plan for at least a weeknd, so you don't have to rush. Part of the beauty of these places is their silence and lack of time sense. Enjoy it.
The town of Suceava is probably the best starting point. Iasi – the largest city in eastern Romania – is located about 120 km southwest of the monasteries and could work out too.
The easiest way to visit the Painted Monasteries is by car; a 30-minute drive (or less) separates them. Car rental is available in Suceava and Iasi. Excursions and day trips are also available from Suceava and Gura Humorului.

Featuring the Balkans: Sofia, Bulgaria

Our team starts series which will feature different regions of Europe we know well. We will also point at fall activities/festivals you may enjoy. In general, September and October are great months to travel South Europe. The weather especially in September is still very warm, so don't be afraid to book a beach vacation. Locals do that and you can trust them. I don't remember the last time I've been to the beaches in August. Usually I am there in September. The water is well heated by all the hot days over the past two months, the crowds are mostly gone but there are enough tourists to create a pleasant buzz, all bars/restaurants/facilities are working, and last but not least - the deals start at this time.

We are starting with Bulgaria - a well hidden tourist destination for North American tourists but already very popular with West Europeans, many of which bought second homes there. The capital is Sofia which happens to be the home city of a member of our team, and here are her short reviews and tips for the visitors of Sofia.

If you’re planning a trip to South Europe, you must stop at Sofia and enjoy the atmosphere of a vivid capital, neither too big nor too small. Despite the fact that 1.5 million people live there, Sofia is among the European capitals that succeeded in saving their quiet Southern spirit. When I walk the streets of my old neighbourhood (Lozenetz) today, I breathe again the aroma of the lime trees in bloom, children are still playing on the street, soccer balls are flying around, birds are fed from the windows, squirrels gather food for the winter, cats are lazily stretching on the stone fences while the dogs anxiously walk around. It is the late summer and early fall when I love to go back home though. September and October are the months when a true traveller will hit the warm stone streets. The crowds are gone, the tourists are long left for home or are tanning at the Black Sea beaches. While Sofia, as most capitals, never feels really empty, the fall is a quite, comfortable time. Its bouquet of scents is the one of abundance – roasted red peppers, pumpkin with honey and walnuts, chestnuts in the open fire, lime tea and red wine.
There are four things I would say you must do in Sofia. The first one is to go and watch the Guard in front of the presidency when they change the patrol. In summer uniforms: http://images.ibox.bg/2009/07/12/karaul/430x283.jpg , http://static.panoramio.com/photos/original/13717424.jpg and in winter uniforms: http://www.dnes.bg/images/photos/0025/0000025928-article.jpg
The National Guards Unit of Bulgaria is the successor of the Personal Cavalry Convoy of Knyaz Alexander I, founded in 1879, when on July 12 the guards escorted the Bulgarian Knyaz for the first time. These guys are chosen among thousands of applicants. They must be similar in every way – height, stature, age, looks, etc. They are not allowed any piercing, dyed hair or tattoes while in service. They can not wear any rings, bracelets, watches, etc. – nothing that would make the uniform look ridiculous as it is after all a copy of a centuries old uniform. They are not allowed to move any part of their body while at post in front of the presidency. They are the elite. They are not only warriors but great performers too. Even “West Point” awarded their marching with a medal for excellence. Their uniforms are made by particular tailors, specializing in this, from the best fabrics. On their hats they wear an Alexander star and real eagle feathers. Each button on their coats is made of best quality metal, each detail is handmade for the particular man and must fit ideally. The uniforms are ironed three times a day, the boots made of first class leather must be shining anytime, the feathers are to be brushed before putting the hat on – this is only the easier part of being a guard. The most difficult is the marching and parade training. The guardians make complicated figures using their marching skills and their weapons during official parades. It takes months of everyday practice to polish these performances. They also have a great orchestra which supports their marching performances.This year they celebrated 130 years since the guardians army was founded. We all love them and are proud of them, and wish them many more years of admiration from the public.
The second thing I recommend is the National Historical Museum in Boyana – a former village and present suburb of the growing city. Going there will not only allow you to see some of the most remarkable treasures of the Ancient Greek and Thracians but will also give you the opportunity to walk in Vitosha mountain – a national park too and a former volcano. The museum was moved from downtown in order to grant visitors with more space and beautiful natural surroundings. There are manicured and landscaped gardens around too as well as cafe, restaurant, souvenirs shop, etc. Here is the official website of the museum in English: http://www.historymuseum.org/?lang_id=1&PHPSESSID=c28c17b60d50b90486c5578c2a13157aa.

While in Boyana, absolutely don't miss the Boyana church - part of the UNESCO world heritage. In the church you will have the chance to see the portrait of one of the most beautiful women in Europe at the time - the Bulgarian Tarnovo queen Desislava. Tarnovo was the former capital of Bulgaria. The portrait was made by a team of unknown artists but they remained in the history as the Boyana Master. Here is the church website: http://www.boyanachurch.org/indexen.htm
Third, and one of my most favourite, visit the Alexander Nevski cathedral – an amazing church with beautiful paintings and painted glass works, and with some of the most fabulous saints icon in the Orthodox world. Often, you will have the opportunity to see there an ancient icon displayed for religious people to pray to it. Such icons rarely leave the monasteries where they are usually kept but when they do, they always are displayed at the cathedral in Sofia for at least two days. Here is the cathedral in all its glory -one of the most photographed objects in Southern Europe: http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/3664/800pxalexandernevskicatzs5.jpg . Also, on this photo: http://www.eko.bg/uploads/Sofia_AN.jpg you can see that the cathedral is surrounded by the famous “yellow paved” part of Sofia. These paves have been there for centuries, they are crazy expensive but we all are glad to pay for replacement with new yellow paved stones and save this part of old Sofia as it has always been.
And last but not least, don’t miss the traditional (and I emphasize that!) Bulgarian cuisine. While you can certainly go to McDonalds, KFC, or any pizza shop on the street for many days, save one evening and enjoy supper as all South Europeans do – long and abundant. There are not that many proven good traditional restaurants in Sofia as the true Bulgarian cuisine requires longer preparation of the meals and fresh produce. One of the restaurants I recommend is “Murafeti” : http://murafeti.com/galeria.htm The website is naturally in Bulgarian but if anyone needs contact info, click on the last button or give me a shout and I’ll translate. The restaurant has live music too -authentic Bulgarian folklore which made the country worldwide known – think of movies like “Arizona Dream” or the fact that Bulgarian folklore song flies in the space aboard NASA ship to represent the Earth. Another great one (and among the oldest): http://www.vodenitzata.com/home_en.html And one more: http://www.kashtite.com/index_en.html
My advice on the menu – there are a few things you should not miss. One is the homemade fresh baked traditional Bulgarian bread (you may see pictures on the websites of the restaurants). Second, the traditional cold soup “Tarator” recipe for which I have given in this blog and which is made of natural Bulgarian yogurt (did you know that Bulgaria is indeed the country where yogurt was invented? That’s why the bacteria that makes the milk sour is called Bulgaricus). Third, the famous bean soup with mint – definitely go for it, it is absolutely fantastic! Fourth, the highly praised and much loved “Shopska Salad” – tomatoes, cucumbers, green and red bell peppers, onion, fresh parsley, olive oil and first class Bulgarian cow cheese on the top. For the main dish, choose between meat prepared on “sach” – a ceramic thick plate placed directly on the fire (be careful as it will be brought to you still cooking which is the entertaining part); vegetarian dishes like zucchini in yogurt sauce or eggplants in tomato sauce; “gjuvedze” – eggs, cheese and fresh vegetables prepared in the oven in a small individual ceramic pot, to mention just a few. For dessert, try the traditional (and healthy) yogurt based options – with wild berries, with fresh fruits and honey, or with honey and cheese. In the fall, don’t miss the stuffed pumpkin!

Some tips: Bulgarians, like many Europeans, are not going to ask you how you are immediately - they are not rude, just reserved a bit. Smiling at everyone is not common, save it for your friends. If you need any kind of help, rely on them, they will do what they can. Don't go to night clubs without the advise of a local. Avoid districts at the west and north ends of the town, keep close to downtown, south and east are save and wealthy. Be careful with thieves, especially in the crowded streets and public transportation. Otherwise, use the public transport - it is good, the subway is a great deal, clean and neat. Bulgaria is still very cheap for most foreigners - a taxi from the airport to downtown will cost you about 15-20 dollars and it's a long way. A three course meal can be found at 10 dollars. Alcohol is cheap too - do go to the store and get some Bulgarian wine, many of them are award winners and well known. If you have more questions or comments, please post them.
And welcome, we love guests! In any case, I strongly advise everyone to go to the countryside too – in any country that is where the true atmosphere is to be felt. We will continue the Featuring the Balkans series with some fall celebrations in the countryside you may want to see/attend.

Gourmet travelling, cooking classes and themed travelling

We were asked a number of times over the past few months to arrange, research and design individual gourmet tours. I hate calling them cooking classes because they can be much more than that. For example, they can be more of the trying/tasting type and not so much about learning how to cook. Or they can include the "how-to-cook" element but instead of attending pre-organized classes, the customer can stay in an 18-century stone house and learn the tips from the hostess herself. Wine tasting can be done in the nearby vineyards together with the man of the house. Gardening can be explored with the local florist, etc.
Photo courtesy of www.kulinarno-joana.com

There are unlimited opportunities and hobby related travelling, or "themed travelling" as we like to call it, becomes more and more popular. It is attractive because it offers more than what we usually get from a trip - accommodation, one-two attractions, meals, and... What more is there? The truth is many people are looking for enriching experiences and when these are related to something they love to do, even better. Such themed travelling can be arranged for gardening lovers, chefs-to-be, butterflies explorers, botanics addicted, stone collectors, orchid growers, wine fans, and the list can go on forever. Even knitting can become a travelling experience.
One way to have such a lovely vacation are the organized tours. They may be for large groups or boutique tours for small groups of people who are usually asked in advance what their preferences are. Then the group is formed and hopefully the click will happen.
One of the companies you may want to consider: http://www.traveloffthebeatenpath.com/tours.html if thinking of France and small groups cultural, culinary and wine experience.
Luxury gourmet, wine tasting and golf experience in four French departments. You may even find a truffle! http://www.delikatours.com/index_e.html?gclid=CPqfxpGH-ZsCFQ_xDAodPyuw-Q
A wonderful website for travellers willing to try Spanish and Portugal food and wine: http://www.euroadventures.net/ea_vol22.asp?gclid=CPjN-rOG-ZsCFQEhDQodskTl_A
Themed culinary tours in Italy, choose based on your favourite food: http://www.guided-tours-italy.com/
An unique offer for luxury gourmet safari - choose Australia, Greece, or even Vietnam: http://www.gourmetsafaris.com.au/

Having listed these, I will again advise those of you who are willing to save some money, to try and experience the less known countries of South Europe which can still offer you award winning wines and great cuisine. Bulgarian wine tours: http://www.infohub.com/travel_packages/food_wine_bulgaria_186.html
Beautiful Romania and the unique opportunity to eat what Dracula probably did :) http://www.infohub.com/travel_packages/food_wine_romania_216.html
Don't miss some of the best sausages and meat dishes in Europe, go Serbia: http://www.infohub.com/travel_packages/food_wine_serbia_221.html
Sunny Greece and cooking with a renowned chef: http://www.infohub.com/vacation_schools/576.html

It is a good idea to use this website I quoted above for any themed vacations as it offers an extensive selection of hobby related trips around the world. If you look to the right of any of these pages, you will see listed biking tours, fishing tours, hiking, hunting, sailing, kayaking, etc. Another destination to consider is South America where you can find great meals at funny prices. The wines afre also good. The website has South American tours too: http://www.infohub.com/travel_packages/food_wine.html

I would also suggest to avoid the big festivals. If you wish to go on a beer tasting vacation, you can still visit Germany but the Oktoberfest may not be for you. Visiting a smaller German town is a good idea as they all have their festivals and you won't miss the cultural experience but the money spent will be much less. Or go to the Czech Republic and try some of the best beers in Europe at much lower prices. For a detailed advice where to go, you can always get your research and tips from us at http://www.youruniquevacation.com/

You may want to go on an exotic gardening tour: http://www.gardeningtours.com/?gclid=CJ3_0MWK-ZsCFRghDQoduyhr9Q
Or visit the famous English gardens: http://www.specialgrouptours.com/html/garden_tours.html
Or check out how the rest of the European gardeners are doing these days: http://europeforvisitors.com/europe/planner/blp_tours_garden.htm
Or simply try the phenomenal Botanica gardening tours: http://www.botanica.travel/

Painting in the heart of Tuscany and Umbria: http://www.artistinitaly.com/

Knitting tours with a craft lover: http://www.joycejamestours.com/

There are thousands of themed tours offered today. We can certainly not list them all here but wanted to give you an idea of what is available. While most of the tours are offered for well known destinations and, naturally, will cost you quite a bit of money, there are others which can save you a lot. From my point of view, travelling with organized groups is good if you are not an experienced traveller.
However, if you have travelled a bit and have been to a region once, I don't really think you need to be organized. What you need is a good deal for accommodation and the rest can be left to local people. What we usually do for customers is we read thousand of reviews and check local websites, blogs, and articles and obtain tons of information on which restaurants will let you learn some secrets, which wineries will allow a sip or two or offer a degustation, etc. This may save you even more money. It is all up to you.
At the end, I would like to advise you to always check the local cuisine and/or climate, attractions, etc. It doesn't make sense to go study cooking at a place where you dislike the food. Or go searching for truffles if you're afraid of dogs or hate muddy forests. Or simply tell us what you're looking for and we'll find it for you. :)

From movies to reality - home exchange/swapping

Do you remember "The Holiday" movie where two women exchanged homes for a hopefully quiet vacation away from ex-boyfriends? When I saw it some years ago, I thought the idea was simply hilarious and clever plot wise. I couldn't imagine people would risk having complete foreigners in their homes although it would be the same for the foreigners having other foreigners, and so on. :)) However, over the past few months I've been researching extensively home exchange websites, blogs and articles as it became one of the hottest trends worldwide.

With the global recession knocking on many doors and the never disappearing longing for vacation, home swapping proved to be the right answer to thousands of travellers. Considering the average price of accommodation in Western Europe, even the owner's direct prices, the amount saved via home exchange would be not less than 350-400 Euro per week, and this is a very conservative approach. This money could easily buy two low-cost (last minute) tickets to major European city, or ten lunches for two in South Western France, or five pairs of designer shoes on summer sale in August. Not bad, eh?

There are hundreds of home exchange websites available on the net but I'm giving you some of those I have checked myself:

http://www.homeexchange.com/ - probably one of the biggest

http://www.ivhe.com/?gclid=CIuhrLi855sCFSMeDQod1UWB5Q - advertised as luxury but you can find everything there

http://www.homelink.ca/?gclid=CLTqgt-855sCFRPyDAodBwxQ6A - this website is 50 years old already!

http://www.seniorshomeexchange.com/ - especially for seniors

http://www.homebase-hols.com/ - Lois Sealey is a Canadian living in London, very personal and helpful

http://homeexchangetravel.blogs.com/ - this is Lois's blog which provides very valuable information, tips and hints

http://www.homebase-hols.com/news44.shtml - a great newsletter by another of the big websites

Finally, never forget to leave an extra pair of keys to a friend/neighbour; sign after you have read well a written agreement; arrange carefully pet care, appliances repair, etc. No doubt home exchange can be an unique way to get close to the local people and culture while saving a lot of money, but you can make it an easy way too by preparing your trip carefully thus avoiding troubles for both yourself and your partners in this adventure. Enjoy with a bottle of good red wine and, who knows, you may even meet Jude Law! :)

The hidden jewels to discover

* Photo courtesy of Kelby Carr, About.com

I'm in the mood to cheer up myself and all fellow travellers today. I'd like to share with you the South West corner of France where prices are far from the Provencal, the wine is great, the nature - beautiful, the climate - fantastic, and the sea/ocean is still there. If you are looking for a warm spot in Europe where you can relax to the fullest watching the burds and wild animals in the Pyrenees, or stretching on the beach, then check it out:

http://www.vintagetravel.co.uk/aquitaine_area_information.cfm

Of course, there are many more websites you can find and look at. This is only one of my favourites as I like their approach toward travelling - an old fashioned, slow and delightful way to explore far from the crowds and all inclusive resorts. The departments you may want to look at are Pirenees Orientales (coast on the Mediterranean sea) and Pyrenees Atlantique (coast on the Atlantic ocean). Now, I know many people who prefer the beaches on the Atlantic. However, my personal preferences are towards the more intimate Mediterranean. It is all up to you.

This corner of France, two corners actually, have lots to offer and are still calmer and cheaper than the trendy Provence and Var. You won't be able to completely avoid celebrities, especially if you choose the Atlantic coast, but the number will be significantly lower. Paparazzi falling from the tree tops are not common in difference from the Cote D'Azur. Rental accommodations are at reasonable prices, food is abundant and restaurants are not expensive.

A good website to look at French departments and get an idea where they are located is this one: http://flagspot.net/flags/fr(dep.html . All are clickable which is very helpful and provides good information.

And don't forget to check our travel clipping service at http://www.youruniquevacation.com/ - we can help you save money and stay away from troubles via extensive vacation research!