Summer heat

*Photo courtesy of www.campeole.com

I blame the heat for my restlessness these days. I don't see for my eyes are blurry of sunlight, I don't sleep for my heart booms in the silence of the night, and I don't work for my feet linger the sand. Summer is coming, I feel it on my skin. The desire to sense different air is growing. Are you on your way yet? Did you plan your escape from the ordinary? Did you buy an impossibly gorgeous swimsuit? I haven't yet but it's on my list. :)) This summer is going to be our summer - mine and my son's. A luxury, spoiling, rich, and disturbingly beautiful summer.

*Photo courtesy of www.lafrancedunordausud.fr

I am going to get back to the land of lavender and comfy lunches lasting for hours. I want to visit Lourmarin again. http://www.theluberon.com/lourmarin.htm I love its calm and relaxing atmosphere, the secret turns of the narrow streets, the squares occupied by colorful chairs and shiny umbrellas, the gites with their swimming pools and iron wrought beds... But most of all I love the scent of warm earth and the song of the crickets in the nights when the kids are asleep and the wine is still cold.

* Photo courtesy of www.vacances-lagrange.com

Then I'll drive back to the Mediterranean which I left two years ago unwillingly. I'll spend sunny afternoons in Gassin and Ramatuelle - two of my favorite spots. http://www.francethisway.com/places/gassin.php The view is breathtaking, the food - impossible to resist. Thankfully, Gassin still remains relatively calm except during the peak month of August. http://www.art-concept.net/gassin/

*Photo courtesy of www.charlesnealselections.com

Further we are heading to the place where I wish I have a house one day - Cassis. http://www.beyond.fr/villages/cassis.html Nudists are still tolerated on the rocks, just so you know. :)) The port is adorable, the heights, where the villas are located, offer some of the best views of Cote d'Azur. Wine is a religion here and has been made for more than fourteen centuries. It certainly leads to long evenings and vivid conversations. The wine carnival is in September, the fishermen's fete is in June. Both are worth seeing. http://www.ot-cassis.com/index_us.php If you can afford it, stay in Chateau de Cassis - a former castle, now 5-star hotel. You will have a blast! http://www.hickerphoto.com/chateau-de-cassis-france-14234-pictures.htm

*Photo courtesy of www.lafrancedunordausud.fr

When I wake up I want to see this.

*Photo courtesy of www.telegraph.co.uk

When we reach the Atlantic ocean one month later, I want to have my evening wine looking at this. :)









A couple of websites for all fellow summer travellers. :)

Gap Adventures has a 15% discount on Europe tours - http://www.gapadventures.com/trips/promotions/yolo-europe-15/?utm_source=btg&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=nl-051310-amazon-yolo-award

Wonderful website with (not only) luxury offers - http://www.luxuryexplorer.com/luxury-hotels.html

Accommodation rentals - http://www.interchalet.co.uk/holiday_homes_cottages.cfm?apartments=cottages&t=Agay

A website full with treasury destinations and clever ideas - http://www.bugbog.com/european_countries/france_travel_guide/cote-dazur-beaches.html

Enjoy the heat! :))

The purple path

If lavender makes you dream of velvet summer nights and cricket concerts, here is the map of the lavender fields in France: http://www.beyond.fr/map/lav_map.html . Don't forget to check the blooming season. For some sorts it is June-July, for others later in the summer. Enjoy your lavender harvest and take home a fragrant memory. :)

Thinking...

*Photo courtesy of http://www.wikimedia.org/

Lately I've been thinking. Surprise, surprise! :))) But it is serious. As I wrote a while ago in my profile, it is time to re-evaluate a couple of things. I'm not that young anymore, I can't afford to just stroll around carelessly. I am a mom, I have to think of the future... Right now things are blocked. Nothing happens, nothing seems to work. I've noticed before that in times like these fate pushes me in quite unexpected directions. That's how I ended up interested in Crawley, West Sussex, England. I know, I'm in Canada... and so what? I even found a couple of companies I'd love to work for and they all have offices in or around Crawley. Why Crawley? It's close to Gatwick airport and flying to France is like going to the mall in Toronto. :)))) Crazy, no? What would life be without adventure? What will my son think of me if I can't break a wall or two? Look at this cute little town, I think we can be happy there...

*Photo courtesy of http://www.geograph.org.uk/

24-hour store! Not to be overlooked, I say.

*Photo courtesy of http://www.beerintheevening.com

Very good looking pub. Yes, I won't have time for pubs being with the little one but he will eventually grow up and it would be nice to have a spot to celebrate my 50th birthday or my retirement.

*Photo courtesy of www.yourlocalweb.co.uk

Very cool! Reminds me of Midsommer Murders! Very British, so to speak.

*Photo courtesy of http://www.yourlocalweb.co.uk/

Mysterious old shabby buildings - the dream come true of every little boy. And it's even sunny! Yuppy!

*Photo courtesy of http://assets.byteplay.com/

I am officially impressed. It costs only about a million pounds. Naturally, this would be close to the advance I'll get for my first novel, no?









OK, so now I've found the prospective employers, the spot to celebrate my retirement, my future house, and even a daycare spot from September. Kid you not. I'm always serious when I'm dreaming of a new life. All must be done properly, research is vital. There is only one problem - it seems I am not allowed to move my life, my talent, and my glorious self to Crawley, West Sussex because I have no visa. Shame on the British government, I say! Instead, I am required to

a/ torture an employer until they breathlessly agree to apply for a work permit or
b/ make another million and become "an investor". Those are always welcome everywhere.

Considering the average value of my publishing contracts, this wouldn't be a problem at all, would it? LOL

Any three-book deals around, folks? Crawley needs me and I need Crawley! :)))))

Summer accommodation on sale

I received a couple of offers today regarding previous inquiries about summer accommodation. Some of these are really good and on sale. I thought some of you may consider them.

This is a studio in the Var department, Cote d'Azur, France - right on the beach http://www.abritel.fr/annonces-detail/france_provence-alpes-cote%20d'azur_83/appartement_st%20mandrier%20sur%20mer_656807.php?cid=E_bmai10ascension_T_IB_stmandrier_text_LPROP_&xtor=EPR-40-[bmai10ascension]-20100510-[stmandrier]-E1dwlns38hvwdp3yprk48dw3k8cc6af7en65idakvmiferenuml7rwnzgbprd4xtxouamonbfsvq7rtdky-20100510000000
It says two beds, one sofa-bed. Four people can sleep there and the price is currently reduced according to the e-mail I received although I don't see it on the page. You may wanna double check.

This is another stuido, above Nice, in a huge garden, seriously cool! http://www.abritel.fr/annonces-detail/france_provence-alpes-cote%20d'azur_6/appartement_nice_628984.php
Again - two beds, sofa bed but they also have a baby crib. There is discount for the last week of May but you may wanna inquire about further in the summer.

This is a very nice villa for this price and notice the location - you may explore both the beaches and the countryside. Some of the best spots in Provence are right next to this spot: http://www.abritel.fr/annonces-detail/france_provence-alpes-cote%20d'azur_6/appartement_nice_628984.php Even the June price is still very reasonable for this place.

If you book this one in May, June or September, I think you're gonna get a super cool place for almost no money: http://www.abritel.fr/annonces-detail/france_provence-alpes-cote%20d'azur_6/appartement_cagnes%20sur%20mer_585754.php

If you're into star stalking, there you go: http://www.abritel.fr/annonces-detail/france_provence-alpes-cote%20d'azur_83/villa_gassin_655095.php Next to Saint-Tropez, in Gassin, golden location, I can gardly believe the price! September would be crazy cheap for this spot and the weather is wonderful! Great opportunity for a bigger family or a company.

Check this whole link for promo offers in South-West France - amazing part of the country, still much quieter than the Provence area: http://www.abritel.fr/annonces/location-promo/france_midi-pyrenees_dt0.php Above the offers you may filter by number of rooms or type of accommodation - bungalow, villa, etc.

Link for promo offers in Poitou-Charente: http://www.abritel.fr/annonces/location-promo/france_poitou-charentes_dt0.php

Hope you find something, I'm on my way to book for late August - early September. :)

Tarot for places - Charente-Maritime

As promised, I will continue with this series. It's fun and helps me find a way to write without following anyone's structure. ;) I am using my Harmonious Tarot again. So, from the Charente-Maritime post I have these places to ask about:

La Rochelle - The Devil http://taroteca.multiply.com/photos/photo/389/16 - ah, surprise, the old guy showed up! LOL On the other hand, the card is spot on - it shows a castle, a keep which La Rochelle is. Spooky? No, not the kind of Scottish castle where ghosts stroll the corridors but the kind of a place with tough and often tragic history (check the Wiki article). There was certainly lots of fear and fire, and battling happening in La Rochelle in the past. The card describes the historical side of the city well enough. In addition, you may wanna be careful at night, don't trust strangers, especially dressed up women ;), don't overindulge, focus on the sightseeing and do less bars. :)))

Gemozac - 9 of Chalices http://taroteca.multiply.com/photos/photo/389/59 - wonderful! A place where one is advised to overindulge! Good food, even better drinks, the chefs are top notch or at least one of them, so make an effort and find the best place to eat. The houses are apparently nicely maintained and decorated, you may wanna take your time and choose the best accommodation of many. People are welcoming, women are polite, and the geese are huge! LOL

Royan - 5 of Chalices http://taroteca.multiply.com/photos/photo/389/55 - hmm... Brides in this city are not always present at their weddings! :))) Seriously, lots of alcohol, even on the floors, be careful to not slip and break your legs. For safety reasons, drink at the hotel or gite. There are nice natural surrounding, forests, lush green fields, the mansions are in top condition, the gardens - well maintained. I'd suggest you leave any designer clothes at home and especially head accessories. Go bare foot and loose your hair. ;) Be aware that fights and disagreements may accompany your trip. If you are experiencing heart pain or have recently broken up/divorced, etc. you may wanna consider Royan to heal your wounds. :)

Beneze - 3 of Pentacles http://taroteca.multiply.com/photos/photo/389/25 - lovely, comfortable, artistic, beautiful gardens with stone benches and rose bushes. Very nice place to go if you're attached - both of you will have a bliss. Conversations will be entertaining, art and creativity will be abundant, and shared comfort will strenghten your connection.

Saintes - 7 of Chalices http://taroteca.multiply.com/photos/photo/389/57 - um... It makes me an impression many of the cards are similar to those I drew for the Loire Valley. It basically describes the unity of France as a destination nicely. Here we have another nice spot for couples if only they leave any serious issues and doubts at home. You shouldn't allow your inner insecurity to spoil your vacation. In Saintes you will have many choices to enjoy yourself, choose wisely and avoid excessive drinking or you won't like your reflection in the mirror next morning. LOL

St Jean d'Angely - 10 of Chalices http://taroteca.multiply.com/photos/photo/389/60 - Oh wow! The ideal spot for families with children. Probably the residents enjoy celebrating too. You may find yourself involved in all kinds of activities - from car races to carnivals and harvesting. Put your nice dresses in the suitcase and add a couple of fancy hair accessories. men, don't forget the "official" suit. Tell the kids to not steal other people's shoes and hit the road to St Jean dAngely, it seems you're gonna have a blast. :)))

Rochefort - Knight of Chalices http://taroteca.multiply.com/photos/photo/389/62 - oh ho. Any single ladies around? Head to Rochefort and don't think twice! Go tot eh Royal Rope Factory and take long walks in the garden, then stroll along the harbour, you never know who will join you. If he carries a glass or invites you for a drink - that's it. Now, you still want to investigate the guy carefully - look for a Knight, not a robber, but love is definitely in the air!

Île d'Aix - 2 of Wands http://taroteca.multiply.com/photos/photo/389/66 - spot on - it's an island, of course. The waters are calm, the beaches - beautiful. The place offers an opportunity for serene vacation. Listen to the sea birds, surrender to the waves, and indulge yourself in the gardens. Leave the shoes at the hotel and stroll the beaches bare feet. Pick up flowers, shop at the local market, smile, and feel the absolute freedom of your body and mind. If you're creative, you may have a couple of new ideas to work on there.

Île de Ré - The Chariot http://taroteca.multiply.com/photos/photo/389/8 - another ideal spot for couples and families - the blissful travel destination. All is there - the historical sights, the nature - although as it is an island, you may find it a bit bare at times and too sandy, the romantic spots, the dusty roads calling for a lazy stroll on a summer afternoon. Ideal for honeymoons too. There are celebrities there, in case you don't know, but they will most often pass by in their cars leaving clouds of smoke behind. Still, be careful on the small roads - some of these drive too fast. It's a heaven for bicycling - there are many areas where this is the main transportation. Otherwise - get your best clothes and enjoy the romantic atmosphere. Don't forget hats, there is plenty of sun and sometimes scorching but tie them well because the island is notorious for the breeze.

Île d'Oléron - Strength http://taroteca.multiply.com/photos/photo/389/12 - yes, it is strong in terms of being the biggest French Island after Corsica. It is also much greener and wooded than the ones described above. Plenty of fruit trees and beautiful flowers. Be careful for any accidents including snakes, cliffs and rocks, especially if you are travelling with children. The local markets are abundant, the vegetables and fruits - heavenly. Men are strong and adventurous - sea wolves. An exciting spot for single ladies. The famous Fort Boyard from the reality show is half way between Oleron and Ile d'Aix. The island is most colorful - the flora, the fauna, and even the houses are showing the burst of creativity of the population.

Cognac - King of Swords http://taroteca.multiply.com/photos/album/389/Harmonious#photo=50 - business place these days. Many of the world renowned cognac producers have their stores and tasting facilities there. On the other hand, seems a good place for single gentlemen. You will feel empowered, attractive (probably the local women will love your posture and outfits!), you may even discover a new side of your own importance as a resident of the Earth - self discovery that is. Good place for writers, philosophers, thinkers, teachers, professors, and students - your mind will be sharp and clear, you may succeed writing your thesis in no time while enjoying the beautiful nature at the same time. Plenty of historical sights too. Not a good place for party goers and those in search of a blast. :)

Charente Maritime or how I'll enjoy the Atlantic coast

*This beautiful photo is courtesy of www.whereonearthgroup.com

As I stated before, I changed my mind and decided to ignore all wisdom around me while taking my son to the French Atlantic coast. I will be on a writing vacation which will surely influence my choice of accommodation and places to stay but you may find a thing or two for yourself. If you have a two-year old torpedo, I'll be considering this too when making my travel plan.

Here is a very nice article in Wikipedia on this French department - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charente-Maritime - one with sometimes happy, sometimes sad history. It's also home of a favorite spot of mine - La Rochelle.

Spotlights:

- Charente Maritime is south-west of the Loire Valley and close enough to become part of your trip if you go to the Loire castles first;
- located on the Atlantic coast, it has marvelous beaches, some of them almost empty in early summer or early fall (avoid July-August when it's really crowded);
- the climate is wonderful, the number of sunny days throughout the year is second only to Cote D'Azur, the average temperatures are about 20C in the summer and 5C in the winter ( note these are averages, it's not 20C in the summer, it's much warmer!);
- the local economy is mainly relying on maritime industry, tourism, cognac and pineau (more on these below);
- seafood is amazing!;
- places to see - La Rochelle, Royan, Saintes, St Jean d'Angely, Rochefort, Île d'Aix, Île de Ré and Île d'Oléron;
- La Rochelle is not an international airport but there are charters from Britain, alternatively you may use Nantes or Bordeaux.

A couple of accommodations:

Between Saintes and Cognac is the gite you see on the left - http://www.giteducalme.com/
In Gemozac - true bourgeois mansion - http://www.alwaysonvacation.co.uk/holiday-rentals/174015.html
In the La Rochelle area - http://www.alwaysonvacation.co.uk/holiday-rentals/196846.html#photo
Nice one near La Rochelle, very good for children: http://www.alwaysonvacation.co.uk/holiday-rentals/121629.html
I like this one too: http://www.alwaysonvacation.co.uk/holiday-rentals/196844.html
If you're into bold design statements: http://www.alwaysonvacation.co.uk/holiday-rentals/628913.html
This one is advertised as Royan accommodation but it seems more like Gemozac, not bad, quite simple but well maintained - http://www.alwaysonvacation.co.uk/holiday-rentals/118403.html
Between Royan and Bordeaux - http://queensville.co.uk/La-Vieille-Grange/index.htm
Same area as above - http://gitesdegarbellant.fr/one-gite-house-barn-cottage-appartements-villas-un/default.asp
Various villas for rent on Ile-de-Re - http://www.bon-sejour-en-france.com/ile-de-re/ile-de-re-accommodation.html

My personal choices:
http://www.beaugite.com/location/pays/france/dpt17/373/infos.htm - quiet, yet close enough to beaches when driving;
north of La Rochelle, closer to Nantes airport: http://www.lamaisonenpierre.com/
In Beneze, next to Royan, one of my favorite cottages in the area: http://www.beneze.net/ ;
Fabulous place with chateau and cottages on site: http://www.chateaumouillepied.fr/ - close to Saintes;
On the already famous island Ille-de-Re: http://www.bon-sejour-en-france.com/ile-de-re/270/holidays-rental-Sainte---Marie-Cottage-Sirene-.htm ;
Something special half way between Loire Valley and the Atlantic beaches: http://www.legrandsaule.co.uk/

Links to local pages:
La Rochelle - http://www.francethisway.com/places/larochelle.php , http://www.holidays-la-rochelle.co.uk/ ;
Royan - http://www.ot-royan.fr/FRAccueil.asp?lg=UK with version in English;
Saintes - http://www.francethisway.com/places/saintes.php , http://www.ville-saintes.fr/index.php?id=725 ;
St Jean d'Angely - http://www.a-taste-of-france.com/dangley.html , http://www.frenchconnections.co.uk/en/guide/city/142817-st-jean-d-angely-charente-maritime ;
Rochefort - http://www.bernezac.com/Rochefort_uk.htm , http://www.ville-rochefort.fr/accueil - in French , http://www.francethisway.com/places/rochefort.php ;
Ile d'Aix - http://www.france-for-visitors.com/atlantic/la-rochelle/ile-d-aix.html , http://www.bernezac.com/Aix_uk.htm ;
Ile de Re - http://www.bernezac.com/Re_uk.htm , http://www.holidays-iledere.co.uk/ .

What to taste:

*Photo courtesy of www.cognacnet.com

Pineau - this is an aperitif, a type of liquor wine (mistelle or vin de liqueur) made from fresh fermenting grape juice added to brandy (Cognac eau-de-vie). The fermentation stops and the result is pineau. It's delicious and a bit tricky, limit it to a small glass prior to your meal. There are white, rose and red pineau, depending on the vines used. The white is made of Ugni Blanc, Folle Blanche and Colombard, and occasionally of Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Montils. The rose and red are made of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. Have it chilled. If you're lucky to visit in a good year, you may have the rare chance to see the harvest picked manually with the proper celebrations on the vineyards. Join, don't think twice!

*Photo courtesy of www.beveragewarehouse.com


Cognac - this famous product of the French unmistakable taste for spirits is made of distilled wine. The vines used - white ugni, folle blanche and colombard - are grown specifically to produce material for distilling.

The distillation is double and after that the brandy ages in oak barrels. The oak gives away its tannin to the brandy and makes for the unique taste and the amber colour. The alcoholic strength drops in the dark cellars through evaporation. It's important and known as"the part for the angels". Once bottled, the ageing of cognac stops.


Finding a place where to taste both pineau and cognac is not difficult. In the bigger towns and villages there are stores offering the local produce where you will also be educated on the history of the drink. If you have time and are interested, definitely visit the town Cognac where you can enjoy tasting some of the world's finest cognacs and take a tour of the museum dedicated to the drink - http://www.westernfrancetouristboard.com/cognac.html . Driving between the small villages will also provide you with numerous opportunities - just watch for the signs. The cooperatives are always good spots and the prices are very reasonable. For more distinguished taste and atmosphere, opt for the mansions ruling over the vineyards - the signs on the roads are usually theirs.

More on food, drink and general area information here: http://www.discover-poitou-charentes.com/food-drink/local-delicacies.htm It's a lovely website which I wish all the best. In the next post I'm going to ask Tarot about the places I listed here. :)))

A sidenote: Just look at this bijou! It's a miniature castle next to Chinon: http://www.alwaysonvacation.co.uk/holiday-rentals/481440.html

Vacationing and Mr. Darcy

Because the surrounding arrogance irritates me a great deal these days and makes me feel quite a bit tired, I decided I will go on vacation after all. Just like that, against all financial wisdom and family advice. I'll take my son and hit the Atlantic beaches, we may even go to Biaritz. I'll share what I've found about this area in the next couple of posts. I'll, of course, ask Tarot which place would be best to choose as well. :) I will also take my netbook and... write!

You may expect cheesy romantic flavour which always accompanies my trips to France and I love it! If I could choose now, I'd opt for a dark, handsome stranger with broad shoulders (mandatory), tall and slender (preferred), aloof (recommended) and highly intelligent (a must) to become my next book's hero. I already wrote one of those and one of the editors told me he made her feel "uneasy". I bit my lips to not point that a true Mr. Darcy was supposed to make her feel this way, no? But she may had never read Jane Austen which would have made the whole thing pointless. The important thing is I can never get enough of dark handsome strangers which behave like the king of the world. It concerns me. I may have insecurity issues. Or height issues. Or shrinks know what. Yet, I indulge myself writing again and again about Mr. Darcy. It's true I try to make him a bit more contemporary, so to speak but I still can not imagine him doing the dishes or speaking slang... I think this will be the topic of my next novel which, hopefully, won't be buried. LOL

Tarot for places upon request :)

I received a few messages regarding the tarot for places. It seems many of you are feeling the summer fever and would like to know how the cards would describe the villages from the last Loire Valley post. I used my Harmonious Tarot - http://taroteca.multiply.com/photos/album/389/Harmonious - the most romantic I have, and the results I'm posting below. Hope you all find the best place for a truly hot summer. ;)

Rou-Marson - 5 of Wands - surprisingly busy! Lots of nature there - you will have the chance to explore trees, flowers, and even the green grass of the valley where you can have a picnic or two. However, the place seems to have a bit of a restless vibe. Angelic looks concealing competitive spirit. Very French, no? Sports are highly recommended, wrestling, if you are into it, too. Avoid fighting with your mate. :))


Les Ulmes - 3 of Swords - appropriate, considering the past of the village. Yes, there was pain there - the pain of a man who became famous sacrificing himself. It was love he sacrificed for. A tempting place where you can meet a nymph or too if you keep your eyes open. Don't wear your heart on your sleeve there or it may be stolen and you may remain forever waiting on the river bank. Not recommended for couples. Good for daring singles. ;)

Montfort - 10 of Wands - very nice, busy little place. Yes, it also has a chateau which is a controversial topic between the residents of Montfort and Cizay-la-Madeleine. As you see on the card, the people of Montfort are gazing dreamily towards the chateau. I bet the other villagers are doing the same. :)) If you go there, you will find joy in gathering herbs and flowers and having picnics in the fragrant fields. Or you may escape the sun under the trees.

Cizay-la-Madeleine - 7 of Chalices - interesting. Very tempting. If you are in the beginning of a relationship, take your honey there. It will bring abundance of dreams and options for lazy afternoons, meaningful conversations, and a revelation here and there. Be careful not to share too much though. The honey may see things you wish to conceal. Don't carry mirrors with yourself - danger of showing too many wrinkles. Do take your hat and sunscreen with you. If you are in an established relationship, go ahead. Chances are you have already seen each other's wrinkles often enough. :))

Doue-la-Fontaine - 3 of Pentacles - very nice. Excellent spot for couples who feel comfortable in each other's company. Many fun choices offered, things to see or do, artistic endeavors will flourish as well as your willingness to be together. Have no second thoughts.

Brossay - Ace of Swords - energetic and a bit surprising. Winds should be blowing hard there, you may have more than one bad hair day. On the other hand, you will feel capable of doing anything and everything. Great for beginning relationships - conquer the partner with a swing. Do take your fancy long dresses, the wind will accentuate your curves. If you own elegant fans - even better. Do practice dancing.

Mountreil-Bellay - 8 of Pentacles - abundant, rich, elegant place. Enough art and history to satisfy your hunger for culture. Relaxed and comfy - for those seeking peaceful vacation. A place where you can reflect on yourself or the other, or both. Requires certain style. Do pay attention to your shoes and hair style. :))

Le-Puy-Notre-Dame - Queen of Swords - impressive. Seems like the village has more to offer than usually advertised. Strong women are raised there for sure. Nice weather - the clouds are quickly cleared and the sun is warm. A bit of scarce growth but you may not need forests around. Instead, you may have to attend an event or two where you'll have the chance to show your intelligence, knowledge, and queenly manners. Do practice and learn etiquette. If you're into weapons, take them with you but be careful at the customs! :)) Recommended for singles and intellectuals.

Vaudelnay - 6 of Wands - a bit puzzling. The small village looks like another hidden jewel. If you are into showing off, go straight to Vaudelnay. Do take your best clothes with you and practice your horseback riding. Fancy hats are almost mandatory. Do study gardening and botanical magazines. Men should avoid it, single women would be better accepted. However, if you are in a committed relationship, you will have a blast. :))

Portrait of a woman

In a distant corner of the South, on a dusty square, under the scorching afternoon sun, slightly to the right of the cafeteria, is located the bakery. Every morning we join the army bicycling to get their fresh croissants and baguette. The angelic scent is felt from behind the turn and attracts strayed cars from the main road. They make a mini traffic jam in front of Bernadette's window.

Bernadette loves aliens. They are an endless source of stories during the long winter evenings and an opportunity to once again demonstrate she had lived her youth in Paris and was a worldly woman of broad understanding. According to the rumor, she not just lived there but conquered this Paris with a swing. Having not finished school and never touched the door of an university, Bernadette found a job in a patisserie using her "charm". Thanks to the time spent in her grandmother and mother's kitchens, she quickly improved her position both on the ground floor and in the upper apartment of the owner. It happened many years ago. Bernadette states she is sixty-five but the gossipy elders are refusing to take her any younger than seventy. Bernadette ignores them with all the dignity of her mighty stance and frequently pretends she hasn't heard their order.

Bernadette's youth has long been a beloved subject in the village, skillfully fueled by herself after returning from Paris. It happened too soon - only two years after she had left. Although young, the wise Bernadette had quickly realized good men were hard to find in Paris and her invaluable looks and skills would fade while looking for one. The skills she refuses to discuss but puts on a secretive smile.

It seems her husband highly appreciates them for he is gazing at her with adoration and pride. Claude, as his name is, is a tiny old man, a wine maker, earth lover, in a straw Panama hat. He is about three times smaller than his wife but leads a daily war against the gossips in the village to defend her reputation. No evening passes in the cafe when Claude won't stand up for Bernadette's chastity, albeit slightly scratched here and there. He says women like her should be chosen to represent Mariana - this icon of the French femininity. It usually causes mass choking. I can not blame them. No one knew Laetitia Casta at the time but Mariana has never been a piece of heavy machinery.

After coming back to her native village, Bernadette flourished in the warm sun on the heavy, fertile soil. She returned to her roots and opened the bakery on the square in the family house where she was born. Less than a month later Bernadette noticed the prospective bachelor Claude. He had been to war which, in her value system, was the highest form of endurance test - a quality she identified as essential to a future husband. And the moment she had made her choice, she had already conquered him. They married three months later.  She bore his children but they flew to the big cities and now come to visit only on weekends and for the summer. Bernadette has not yet forgiven them for making her a grandma too soon.

This femme formidable loves not only newcomers but everything big - houses, cars, hairstyles (all her hair is placed on top of her head), skirts, blouses (they look borrowed from a Velasquez painting), gardens, chairs, beds (on hers three Bernadettes may sleep comfortably) and most of all - bushes.

Bernadette considers growing flowers an absolute waste of time and space. Flowers require permanent care while the only result is tiny colorful spots here and there in the backyard. Bushes are quite a different story. They can not be missed even from afar, bloom longer, want almost no care and protect the yard from the watchful eyes of nosy neighbors. The outcome of this brilliant theory is a backyard resembling the keep of La Rochelle, surrounded by tall fence and high lilacs, cypresses and ten more species of unknown shrubs she gets delivered from Marseille. She is a proud owner of this jungle while Claude is still trying to swallow the ruined crops that couldn't survive the vigorous growth of the bushes.

Bernadette almost squeaks of joy when she sees the bikes. We provide her with sweet time for rest and chat. Although my French is terrible, she keeps asking questions and moves slowly behind the window carefully packing my croissants. It looks like a sacred act of revelation among the baguettes. Feels like a confession - sometimes relieving, often uncomfortable, especially when we touch the topic on the last underwear trends. Bernadette is a woman of fashion but complaints she receives few magazines these days and the postman behaves unforgivably taking her stuff to his wife. She says she has to go to Marseille to buy a proper dress. Very troublesome.

The rumor has it that Bernadette loves big bottles as well. She's been reportedly spotted pouring aromatic wine down her throat and dropping a bit here and there in her dough. It would explain the always cheerful mood of her customers. Providing the villagers with these special goods has turned Bernadette into an icon and main contributor to the village's prosperity. For how would they survive the endless hours in the vineyards without the proper enthusiasm?

That is why everyone felt terribly concerned when in the end of the summer Bernadette went to Marseille for her regular shopping tour and didn't come back on the Sunday evening as she had always done before. The priest prayed; the cafe owner gave away wine; Claude opened and closed the bakery and even made some bread himself; all was done to welcome Bernadette when she would finally come home but she didn't. I waited on the square like everyone else, sipping from my free wine and wondering in the darkness of the fragrant night.

On a lazy afternoon...

On a lazy sunny afternoon I deal with whatever questions I have received regarding recent posts. There are a couple of them asking about sights and accommodation away from the main chateaux route in the Loire Valley. I look outside and see the sun is going west. So, I look west from Saumur which I chose before for a focal point of my posts, and here is what I suggest you do if you go west.

You can drive either towards Doue-la-Fontaine (and I strongly recommend you rent a car if willing to explore the side roads) or towards Mountreil-Bellay. In both cases you will pass by Cave Grolleau where you can taste some really fine wines. Then, reaching Pace, you will have to choose either road.

If you decide to go to Doue-la-Fontaine, you can also explore the Rou-Marson area and dine at the cave restaurant http://www.cavesdemarson.com/cellars.html . Although I've heard people being unhappy with the service, I personally have never had any complaints. In the village there is also a nice small castle which is often overlooked. You will then reach Les Ulmes - a tiny village with interesting stories to tell. The official website is in French: http://www.lesulmes.mairie49.fr/ but this document will give you an idea: http://www.doneohostmaking.com/Miracle/LesUlmes.pdf . Never miss a place where miracles happened for yours may be on the way! :) On the other side of the road you will see the smallest "town" in the community - Montfort. There you can taste very good wines of Anjou and the rose trees are worth seeing. Typically French, the residents of Montfort and Cizay-la-Madeleine are arguing over the ownership of Chateau of Epinats built in the XVII century. The Madeleine's website is here: http://www.cizay.la.madeleine.mairie49.fr/ .
*Photo courtesy of www.farm-cottages-holidays.com

Doue-la-Fontaine is an ancient town which was identified as an inhabited spot as early as the 7th century. There are ruins uncovered which can be seen close to the springs. In the town was located one of the oldest habitable donjon (keeps) in France, built about the year 900. The castle is believed to be the first European castle built of stone around 950.There are also troglodyte dwellings and commercial mushroom-growing caves. The Zoo is partially built within the troglodyte dwellings. Doue is titled the rose capital of France and a "Festival of the Rose" is held annually in July. More than 800 varieties of roses can be seen during the event. The official site (in French) is: http://www.ville-douelafontaine.fr/ . The zoo website has an English version: http://www.zoodoue.fr/ . There is a good hotel at the edge of the town - Hôtel De La Saulaie with a huge park and a swimming pool. There are many others, of course, but this one is what I personally know.

From Doue you can drive straight to Mountreil-Bellay and thw only village on your way will be Brossay. While there is a winery which carries the name Chateau-de-Brossay it is not located in the Brossay village. :)) It is in Cléré-sur-Layon, further west. Therefore, don't look for the Chateau or the wines in this Brossay. There is a fine chateau in another Brossay, in Bretagne. Very confusing, I know. Basically, the Loire Brossay is as off the beaten path as one can imagine. If you're looking for a quiet place, this can be it.

On the other side of this triangle is Mountreil-Bellay with its serene beauty and very good wines: http://www.chateau-montreuil-bellay.fr/index.php?/montreuilbellay/EN . Among my personal favorite spots, the town is charming, much quieter than the popular toursit attraction on the Loire itself but still offering enough of history, nature, and typical French lifestyle to satisfy many. More about the beautiful chateau and the town can be found here: http://www.chateaux-france.com/montreuilbellay . Official website: http://www.chateau-de-montreuil-bellay.fr/ . There is a pretty good hotel in the town: http://www.hotelrelaisdubellay.fr/ and if you write to them in English, they tend to respond in the same language. :)

From there you can drive a bit more to the west and visit Le-Puy-Notre-Dame - official website: http://www.ville-lepuynotredame.fr/ . For such a small town, Le-Puy-Notre-Dame offers a lot - caves, mushroom growing, museums, retro cars show, and naturally - beautiful nature. Later the town has become quite popular among foreign home buyers, so if you're on the way to buy a vacation home, now is the time. :) A very nice blog of a bed and breakfast spot is this one: http://lagrandemaison.blogspot.com/ . Another sweet blog is this one and the couple live in the village plus own gites which you can rent: http://loiregites.wordpress.com/2007/08/28/a-morning-stroll-around-le-puy-notre-dame/ .

*Photo courtesy of www.anjou-tourisme.com

In the middle between Mountreil-Bellay and Le-Puy-Notre-Dame is located Vaudelnay which is another quiet spot and where you can find this very nice accommodation: http://en.likhom.com/bnb/La-Croix-Saint-Andre/vaudelnay . The official website is: http://www.communes-francaises.com/49/vaudelnay/ and even if you don't know French, you can click on the links to check out pretty good offers for bed and breakfast or rental cottages.

Enjoy! :)

Writing late doesn't help but hot air balloons do

Sometimes I make the big mistake to read my earlier posts and I'm terrified by all the mistakes there! How could I even think of a plant with "medical properties"? Amazing! I'm not editing anything though. I must have proof how bad writing late is, so I can finally stick to a better schedule and post when still conscious. :)))

One of my all time favorite books is "Winnie the Pooh Bear" and one of my most favorite objects in the book is the blue balloon. Have no idea why I'm so obsessed with balloons but my son has inherited it, therefore you should know it's genetic. :))) I hope it has something to do with imagination and dreams. Something like shooting for the moon to find yourself among the stars. Or my most beloved thought written once by Bernard Shaw:
"You see things; and you say, 'Why?' But I dream things that never were and I say, "Why not?"

Capital, isn't it? Daring, provoking, dreamy, passionate, challenging, and so balloonish!

*Photo courtesy of www.loire-getaways.com

And the whole balloon point, which I turned into long and probably boring, was actually made to tell you about one fun thing you can do in the Loire Valley with which I am finalizing this series for now - you will never forget the experience if you try the hot air balloon trips offered in the area! Believe me, it is breath taking. Here are some links:
http://www.france-balloons.com/balloon-ride,val-de-loire.php
http://www.parisnet.com/balloon_loire.html
http://www.loirevalleyballoon.com/English.phtml?PHPSESSID=12f0fe2139b009edc0481f05bffc8ff9

There are many more, of course but these are quite popular. It is pricey and the rates may differ by as much as 50 Euro, so you wanna check carefully. It is always best if you are a big company or if you are staying somewhere where other people will be willing to join you because a group rate is always best value. In any case, if you have the chance, don't think twice. The memories still keep me floating years after I did it. :)

On a second thought, if you like horses (I adore them!) you will never forgive yourself passing by the French National Riding School without seeing their remarkable performances. You can read the history (deserves respect!) and see this year's program on their website: http://www.cadrenoir.fr/en/index . The school is located in Saumur and is a main attraction.

And don't forget the wineries! Cheers! Send me a postcard or a photo. :)

Tarot for places :)))

Yes, I'm doing this! :))) The day hasn't become better and I need something to remind me why I do what I do - because I love stories. They come in all forms to me. Some are told by remarkable writers, others by a deck of cards. Here is my experiment today. I draw a card for each of these places and then read it as I would if it was a one card reading. The deck is Robin Wood, all rights reserved of course, you can find the images on http://taroteca.multiply.com/ or click the links below.

The Loire Valley is Four of Cups http://taroteca.multiply.com/photos/album/77/Robin_Wood#photo=107.jpg - what I see first is the lush green. So typical, so emblematic for the place. The old trees covered with ivy, the amazingly green grass, it is spring as the tree is not blossoming yet but it's coming, even the clouds are Loire clouds - puffy and white, still allowing the sun to peek through. What bothers me a little is this man - nice looking guy, no doubt. Willful chin, blond hair, determined sight. White shirt, undone buttons - very sexy. The pants are a daring fashion statement, I love them - military mixed with fisherman style with light Gypsy elements. ;) However, he looks so... not paying attention to the lush green around. "Hey," I want to shout, "I'm giving away a kingdom to be at your place!" Which, of course, is the whole point - he has had so much wine of these fantastic vineyards in the area that he totally lost vision of the beauty surrounding him. And another glass is offered to him! So tempting, so perfect... "Don't!" I should rather shout, "you will miss the summer!" :)))) So, what place is the Loire Valley - dangerous! Too many too good things offered! Watch out! :))

Chinon is Eight of Pentacles
http://taroteca.multiply.com/photos/album/77/Robin_Wood##photo=59.jpg - one has to be blind to not see the river here, no? The card is spot on again - the Loire is there, the castle in the distance peeking from behind the wall of the boy's chamber, the lush green banks of the river are screaming "summer" and the so-well-known to me fluffy clouds are chasing each other. It is a warm day, the boy has opened the window and the early morning sun has not reached the shutter yet. It smells like fresh cut grass, warm croissants, cafe-au-lait, and wood. Because the boy is a creator. Someone who loves what he is doing. Then what place is Chinon - an inspirational place where all things are possible. :) A place to pursue a dream or two. May be the boy is learning how to grow the vines and let the wine rest in the caves around the town or he may be writing another Chinon Parchment - whatever it is, he is content - the simple secret of being happy is hidden in Chinon, folks! :)))

Enough for today, I'm exhausted. If you wish to see your dream place as a Tarot card, let me know. :)))

My imaginary travelling this summer

I'm having a bad day. One of those days when I wonder why I write, why I can not settle down with a more "regular" job, why I am willing to receive scores of rejections, and last but not least - why my dreams don't lead me to a well paid profession which would allow me a dreamy vacation in the Loire Valley. To cheer myself up, I travel in my imagination. :))

*Photo courtesy of www.dailymail.co.uk

One website I absolutely love is http://www.a-castle-for-rent.com/ - mind blowing beauty! If one can stay in a true castle and play the master/mistress even if only for a week or two, why bother with hotels? I wouldn't. I only wonder if purchasing different dining sets for the outdoors has ever been considered. Somehow these plastic ones do not correspond with the rest.

www.holiday-rentals.co.uk/p413628 - this is the house I had chosen for this year's summer vacation before it became clear I wasn't going there. I love the grounds and if you have small children, they have playground too. The location is golden and the house is super comfortable. I find the price reasonable as well.

For those of you who, just like me, can not separate culinary pleasure from travelling, here are a few must-eats from the Loire Valley:
- Potted meat - it is made from pork baked in fat. It may sound terrible but it's absolutely delicious! There are different kinds in the different subregions - Le Mans' is thin and not flavored; Tours' has less fat, rougher texture and forms little cubes. The origins of the potted meat are not completely researched but in the 16th century Rabelais used the term to describe pork cubes;

- Geline de Touraine - the old unique breed of chicken also known as Dame Noire du Lochois - prepared in any possible way, it will make you rethink the meaning of "chicken";

- Farci from Poitou - it was originally produced in the Civray area between Poitiers and Confolens but can be found in Charente as well. It is usually sold in the butcher's. The Farci is a mix of vegetables, herbs, bacon, egges and flour, cooked in cabbage leaves. It is equally yummy either as a starter or as a main dish. The Farci from Poitou about two centuries old;

- Lamb's lettuce - super fine;

- Green lentils with haddock - served in every better restaurant with traditional cuisine;

- Goat cheese - the Loire Valley produces more than fifteen kinds of goat cheese. Some of the best known are Chabichou du Poitou (Chabis) - creamy when young and crumbly as ageing; Bougon - with a very specific soft skin; Sainte-Maure de Touraine - existed as far back as the 10th century and must be eaten from the farthest end, no clue why but I always follow the local customs; Crottin de Chavignol - sold in a perforated container, well complemented by herbs, soft when young, dryer as ageing, and hard and crumbly when old;

- Butter from Poitou-Charentes - never miss this at breakfast! Spread on a freshly baked croissant, this special, cream-colored, hazelnut scented butter is a delicatessen. It is produced under strict control any artificial coloring, preservatives or deacidifying substances are forbidden;

- Angelica from Niort - a plant with a fluted stem which is assigned many medicinal properties (digestive, tonic and antispasmodic). It is sold in the patisserie in the form of sugared green sticks but is also used for jam, liquors and in cooking to flavor omelets, fish, etc.

- Poitou broyé - simple and very crumbly cake;

- Cornuelles - very special small cakes with  three horns and a hole in the middle, made from a pastry by only one confectioner (recipe remains secret) - the Chizé cornuelle or the cornuelle made in pastry shell, or the cornuelle made in donut pastry, and the cornuelle made in sweetened shortcrust pastry, all are filled with confectioner's cream or chantilly cream and vanilla-, lemon- or orange flower-flavored - a must!

- Saint-Michel galettes - very simple but healthy (as much as possible for such food) and crazy popular bisquits, made od wheat and malt flours, sugar, salt, butter, eggs, yeast, glucose syrup, lactose and natural flavors;

- Macaroons from Lusignan, Montmorillon, Lussac and Cormery - my sin - insanely delicious, made of almonds, little round cakes, macaroons don't contain any flour but enough sugar to make me feel guilty for the rest of the year; there are also big ones (God forbid!) called macaronés and you can even visit the Macaroons Museum in Montmorillon - http://www.museedumacaron.com/

- Cheese crab - a specialty cake from the Poitou-Charentes area made with goat cheese and vanilla oil;

- Tarte Tatin - the well known apple tart with caramel topping which is baked upside-down - the pastry put on top of the apples.

A very friendly and informative website is http://short-breaks.by-loire-valley.com/art-de-vivre.htm - it will offer you more about food and wine in the Loire Valley plus will give you some ideas of where to stay and what to do. Another one is http://www.epiculinary.com/ - especially for good life lovers with tendency to eat and drink often. ;) This is a blog I personally always check when thinking of a Loire Valley vacation: http://lagrandemaison.blogspot.com/2009/04/selection-of-loire-restaurants-from.html Enjoy!

More Loire Valley and practical things

I'm finishing the romantic castles part with two more spots.

*Photo courtesy of www.lepissier.org

Chateau de Villandry located in Villandry, Indre-et-Loire. The official website is http://www.chateauvillandry.com/ . It offers a lot of info and, as you can see, 2010 promises to be an abundant in events year, so pack the suitcases and check below for accommodation ideas!

The castle is built on lands where an ancient fortress stood once. In the original 14th-century keep King Philip II of France met Richard I of England (“the Lionhearted”) to discuss peace. The chateau remained in Le Breton family for about two centuries before being acquired by Marquis de Castellane. During the French Revolution it was confiscated and it's a small wonder that Emperor Napoleon acquired it for his brother Joseph Bonaparte - the place is a stunner.

In 1906 Chateau de Vilandry was acquired by Dr. Joachim Carvallo who invested tons of time, money and devotion to repair the place and to create the famous gardens which are widely consideredthe most beautiful anywhere to be seen. These Renaissance gardens include a water garden, ornamental flower gardens, and vegetable gardens. They are designed in formal patterns and create pictures. Like all the castles in the Loire Valley, it is a World Heritage Site. Château de Villandry is still owned by the Carvallo family (a wonder itself!) and is open to the public being one of the most visited castles in France.

*Photo courtesy of www.viamichelin.co.uk

Last but not least, my preferred location for running among poppies and field flowers - Chateau du Rivau. Usually left aside from the most popular for their beauty castles, the place was best known for the visit of Joan de Arc who once went there to get horses for herself and her companions. The area was famous with the war horses raised there. Later same horses were used by the French Kings and the stables became officially "royal". :)

Today, after many years of careful restoration, the unique assemble of chateau, stables, and service buildings is a breathtaking sight and not to be missed! Its most remarkable feature are the "fairytale gardens of Chateau du Rivau". You can see them all on the official website: http://www.chateaudurivau.com/english/home.html . The website is super friendly, there are tons of info and events offered, and the castle still stays on top of my list each time I visit the Loire Valley. The gastronomical and wine tasting pleasures are a must as well! Also, pay attention to the statues and scuptures scattered around the gardens, some of them are true pieces of genius and all are representing modern French art.
More on the practical side, I decided to post here some of my top accommodation spots, assuming you would choose to stay around Saumur. If you prefer another location, let me know and I'll give other ideas. Now, wherever I travel, I usually prefer to rent a house (a gite in French) and either self-cater or order only breakfast from the hosts. This way I can shop the local markets which is a huge part of my pleasure in France, buy fresh produce and (rarely) cook. Most often I would buy vegetables, fruits, cheese, olives, tapenade, sausages and baked goods and open a bottle of good wine. No cooking required and the abundance is guaranteed. For more than fifteen years tasting, I still doubt I have tried all cheese or sausages types! Here are my self-catered and gite choices for the area:

http://lamandieranjou.monsite.orange.fr/ - French speaking;
http://www.maisondemilly.com/ - English speaking, remarkable place;
http://chezpaquerette.free.fr/ - Madame speaks English although it doesn't show on the website ;)
http://www.lesavigne.com/ - impressive and offers breakfast as well;
http://pagesperso-orange.fr/les.roches/ - English version available, with breakfast too;
http://www.iledusaule.com/ - English version available, authentique and nice;
http://labouere.ifrance.com/ - English spoken, I truly love the fields and the garden of this place!;
http://www.fermeduboismadame.com/ - English spoken but not on the website LOL, horses, carriages!;
http://www.lagrangesaumur.eu/presentation.php - very sweet little place, English-Italian+German spoken;
http://www.lamaisonjoulin.com/ - English version available, very nice and authentique place;
http://lelamartine.drgconseil.com/ - English spoken, impressive house;
http://www.lepatiosaumur.fr/ - English version available, this is an adorable old inn which is worth every minute you can spend there!;
http://membres.multimania.fr/mruault/ - English version available, small but cute.

I'm leaving you with these now to gat back to writing. I am still hopeful to sell a book for a couple of millions and move to the Loire Valley forever! LOL In the next post I'll add more places to stay and things to do. Hope you enjoy the places!

I'm reading

I wanted to recommend this book which I've been reading the past few days. After all the books I've read about Provence, I thought there was nothing to attract me anymore. This one definitely changed my mind! As someone who hopes to become a professional writer, I truly admire Mr. Greenside for the funny, witty, warm and yet - objective writing! Check it out, it's worth every minute! I hope he will write a couple more as I'm dying to read about this small village in Brittany again. :))

More Loire Valley castles for lovers

I read today on someone's blog it took them ten minutes to write a post. I was struck and depressed. How do people do that? It takes me more than an hour to arrange all the info, pictures and links! I am daughter of the turtles apparently. Nevertheless, I enjoy putting together the pieces and continue today with my favorite castles in the beautiful valley of the river Loire in France. I wish you can get there this summer and send me photos later. :)

* Photo courtesy of www.linternaute.com

Here is a real treat for all of us fairy tale lovers - the chateau where the Sleeping beuty was born by her creator Charles Perrault. A stunning piece of architecture, Chateau d'Usse has been furnished and arranged to reflect the Sleeping beauty fairy tale. In all the rooms you will find replicas and wax figures of characters we all know - queen and king, princess and prince, witch and fairies. The governess is there, the kitchen is still full of food, the pots are on the fire oven... Only all are fast asleep for one hundred years.


When I first visited the place I was most surprised that such a remarkable building had such an unfortunate story. The castle has been demolished and rebuilt a number of times and has exchanged many owners. Initially built as a stronghold at the edge of the Chinon forest and fortified in the eleventh century by the Norman seigneur of Usse, Gueldin de Saumur, later it passed to the Comte de Blois, who rebuilt it in stone. In the fifteenth century the ruined castle of Usse was purchased by Jean V de Bueil, a captain-general of Charles VII who began rebuilding it in the 1460s. His son Antoine de Bueil, who married Jeanne de Valois, daughter of Charles VII (and of course very rich girl!), was heavily in debt and in 1485 sold the château to Jacques d’Espinay, son of a chamberlain to the Duke of Brittany and himself chamberlain to the king. The new owner built the chapel which was completed by his son Charles in 1538.

In the seventeenth century Louis I de Valentinay demolished the north range of buildings to open the spectacular view over the parterre terrace. His son-in-law - a military engineer Vauban, liked and visited Usse often. However, the castle was passed to a new owner again - Rohan. Then in 1807 Usse was purchased by the duc de Duras.

An interesting part of the chateau history is related to the secret meetings held in 1813 by a group of Bourbon loyalists who met there to discuss the possibilities of a Bourbon Restoration. Among them were men like Trémouille, duc de Fitzjames, the prince de Polignac, Ferrand, Montmorency and the duc de Rochefoucault - names we now know from the books and which carry the romantic patina of the time. Later François de Chateaubriand worked on his Mémoires d'Outre-Tombe as the guest of duchesse Claire de Duras in the castle.

Chateau d'Usse was the inspiration for many of Walt Disney's castles too (together with others of course) ans is a favorite spot for wedding and engagement photos. This is the official website: http://www.chateaudusse.fr/ which is in French but you can always use online translator like Google's. Or you may find a button for English which I may have missed. :) Alternatively, you may check for tips and hints here: http://www.france-for-visitors.com/loire/chateau-d-usse.html and here: http://www.lvo.com/GB/MAG/CHATEAUX/USSE.HTML . One thing I strongly disagree with many online reviews is the chateau is cheesy. It is not. It is romantic and beautiful, and the gardens are fantastic. Even only the view from the courtyard is sufficiently breathtaking. So, if you are in love with someone else, yourself, or the life in general - go celebrate it there! :)

* Photo courtesy of www.francethisway.com

Chateau de Valencay is an impressive piece of architecture with beautiful gardens. Its official webiste is http://www.chateau-valencay.fr/ - in French, of course! ;) One thing I like about French is they rarely care for those of us who have forgotten their language skills at home. Learning in motion, that is. The castle was a residence of the d'Estampes and Talleyrand-Périgord families in the commune of Valencay.
The chateau sits on the edge of a plateau overlooking the little Nahon river. It was built by the d'Estampes family over a period of 200 years. Construction started in 1540 in place of the demolished 12th-century castle and was not completed until the 18th century when the south tower was added.
A rapid succession of owners followed including the notorious Scottish banker John Law. In 1803 Napoleon ordered his foreign minister Charles Maurice de Talleyrand to acquire the property so the emperor could invite and impress foreign dignitaries there - such is the power of Valencay! Surely, Ferdinand VII of Spain, who spent six pleasant years in Napoleonic captivity at Valencay, must have been delighted. :)
When the Talleyrands became owners and occupied the castle, the golden age for the chateau started. Twenty three communes were reportedly administrated by the ruling prince. When Talleyrand died in 1838, he was buried in a small mortuary chapel in the park. His descendants retained the ownership until 1952 when the male line ended. The estate was sold to an association of historic chateaux in 1979.
The chateau was spared during the German occupation thanks to the German roots of its owners. At the time it was the safe place for treasures from the Louvre (the Winged Victory of Samothrace and the Venus de Milo) to be kept. Among its most impressive features are the formal gardens which cover about forty hectares, not counting the area of Talleyrand's vineyards. Llamas, peacocks, and other exotic animals inhabit the park.

Those of you who remember their French or don't mind using an online translation service may want to check this website as well: http://www.visite-au-chateau.com/ . It provides great info about many castles and tourist sites. I will write more about the remaining castles in my next post and will add some practical and not so practical info about the Loire Valley as well. :)

Loire Valley castles for lovers

* Photo courtesy of www.francethisway.com

A while ago I wrote a short story about a woman whose life had turned into waiting. "Only sometimes," she was saying, "a long forgotten sound of steps under the white stone arches would reflect my youth in the waters of the river. The steps would be imaginary. The river would keep flowing undisturbed."

When I wrote it I was thinking of Chateau Chenonceau - one of the few I know which were inhabited, influenced, created, reborn, loved and left by women mostly. The history of this lovely place is a fairy tale itself but my favorite part is related to Diane de Poitiers - the mistress of Henry II who, regardless his later marriage to Catherine de Medici, remained in love with his first lover for his entire life. A rear thing among aristocrats at the time! Diane adored Chenonceau. When I visited the castle, I thought she had never left for real. Her perfume, her steps, her sighs in the lonely evenings without her lover - it was all there. If you have the chance - don't miss the opportunity to also walk the gardens in the evening when the specially chosen music will take you back through time and lives to an era of romance, intrigues, chevaliers and fallen queens. There is something magical about the mist surrounding the columns and the path on the east side. I could see the king riding this path and Diane gazing from the gallery above the water. It was an unique experience I never forgot. This is the official website of Chateau Chenonceau, an invaluable source of information and beautiful photos: http://www.chenonceau.com/




* Photo courtesy of www.travel-france-vacation.com

Another impressive chateau for me was the floating on the river Indre Chateau Azay-le-Rideau. It doesn't have such a romantic history and in fact was owned by the Mayor of Tours, Gilles Berthelot, who was also the treasurer for Francois I. The king later withdrew his favourable attitude towards the mayor and the castle was given to an army man. Still, Azay-le-Rideau has its own romantic air and big part of it is the fantastic location. The castle was built on the ruins of an older chateaux burned during the Hundred Years War. It is one of the earliest French Renaissance chateaux. Built on an island, its foundations rise straight out of the water. And there was a woman whose taste and passion were involved in the building of this bijou as well - the mayor's wife, Philippe Lesbahy, directed the course of the works. It was her who wanted the central internal staircase (escalier d'honneur) that is Azay's most beautiful feature, inspired by the staircase at Châteaudun. The Wikipedia has a nice article about the chateau here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Azay-le-Rideau .



* Photo courtesy of www.globetourguide.com

Château de Chambord is another of the Renaissance castles in the valley and the most grandeur too. It was constructed by Francois I who wanted to be near his mistress - the Comtesse de Thoury, Claude Rohan, wife of an aristocrat whose château de Muides was adjacent. It is said the carved decor of the chateau was to resemble the gentle arms of the Comtesse de Thoury.

Despite its size and mighty presence, the castle was built to serve as a hunting lodge (besides the love nest role) and was destined to loneliness. The king maintained his royal residences at Château de Blois and Château d'Amboise. There has been an ongoing argument about the original designer and architect of this remarkable building but only in the beginning of the 20th century the name of Leonardo da Vinci was associated with Château de Chambord.

One of my favourite features of Chambord - it was never intended to serve as a defense point and nothing in its design was build with the thought of war. If the king was sufficiently in love at the time or da Vinci was indeed the genius behind the delicate yet enormous structure, I don't know. What I do know is this castle has atmosphere and gentle side which are a bit surprising when one first sets one's eyes on the towers - more appropriate for a downtown sight today than for a serene river scene five centuries ago.

Sadly, the destiny of the castle was fulfilled and it was mostly empty during all these years of existence. Louis XIII gave Chambord to his brother, Gaston d'Orleans, who saved it from ruin and did a lot of restoration work; then Louis XIV restored and furnished the royal apartments and added a 1,200-horse stable, enabling him to use the castle for hunting and entertainment for a few weeks each year. Still, Louis XIV abandoned the castle too. Later Stanislas I and Maurice de Saxe inhabited the castle for a while before it feel into silence again. New owners came with more or less desire to save the great building, law suits were initiated, heirs popped up, but only after the end of the World War II Chambord received the care it deserves and today attracts thousands of people each year with its glorious yet delicate beauty. The official website of the castle is http://www.chambord.org/Chambord-en-idm-1-n-Accueil.html - in English.

In the next post, I'll tell you more of my most romantic chateaux in the Loire Valley. For now, enjoy one of the best tours organized in the area: http://www.traveloffthebeatenpath.com/loirevalleyitinerary.html

Dreamy travel destination for 2010

Beautiful, isn't it? This is the fairy castle in Saumur, in the Loire Valley in France. The valley is our dreamy travel destination for 2010.

The photo is courtesy of a wonderful website you may want to check if you wish to learn more about the castles not only in this area but in France in general: http://www.castles.francethisway.com/ The site also offers invaluable info on top destinations, hidden paths, hotels and accommodation, car rentals, sight-seeing, and so on.

For more info on the area you can read this website: http://www.france-for-visitors.com/loire/saumur/index.html - on the left you will see other cities in the region worth visiting and separate categories related to the town you are currently exploring. Our choice is related to book and wine love, so we'd like to visit Blois (who doesn't love the Three Musketeers?) - http://www.france-for-visitors.com/loire/blois/index.html; Angers - home of the Anjou family in the past - http://www.france-for-visitors.com/loire/angers/index.html; Beaugency - another little and beautiful town participating in Dumas' stories - http://www.france-for-visitors.com/loire/beaugency.html; definitely hinon for wine lovers like us - http://www.france-for-visitors.com/loire/chinon/index.html .

The whole region is well known for its wines. Check out this fantastic website for more info on the regional wines, the unique technology of making them and places to visit if you'd like some wine tasting: http://www.terroir-france.com/region/loire_saumur.htm . Each year the town of Saumur holds a Wine Market the first week of September. If you plan to go at this time, check the website: http://www.marchedesvinsdesaumur.com/initiation_degustation_marche_des_vins_de_saumur2.php .

We'd like to feature in thsi post a favorite spot of ours - La Bellevue: http://www.domainedelabellevue.com/ . Sarah-Jane and Gerald will make your stay really special and no, they are not paying us. :)) In fact, they don't know we are blogging about them here. The place offers many options for accommodation, either self-catering (we do that usually) or catered, bed & breakfast, ect. It's located near Montreuil-Bellay - very close to Saumur and an excellent location for exploring the region. Check it out. They also have a very helpful blog where you can follow the local calendar of events: http://www.domainedelabellevue.blogspot.com/.

Finally, we want to add a couple of photos and make you as dreamy as we are to be back, to walk these lush fields once again, to dive into the river, to feel the fragrant air... The addresses of the websites owning the photos are also recommended by us for general information about the region.

Saumur from the http://www.a-taste-of-france.com/

Beautiful Blois from http://frysingerreunion.org/france

Angers - a vision on the river from http://www.lpiabroad.com/



Chinon - almost surrealistic from http://www.loirevalleygite.com/

We hope to see you there this summer!