Sunday, May 2, 2010

Charente Maritime or how I'll enjoy the Atlantic coast

*This beautiful photo is courtesy of www.whereonearthgroup.com

As I stated before, I changed my mind and decided to ignore all wisdom around me while taking my son to the French Atlantic coast. I will be on a writing vacation which will surely influence my choice of accommodation and places to stay but you may find a thing or two for yourself. If you have a two-year old torpedo, I'll be considering this too when making my travel plan.

Here is a very nice article in Wikipedia on this French department - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charente-Maritime - one with sometimes happy, sometimes sad history. It's also home of a favorite spot of mine - La Rochelle.

Spotlights:

- Charente Maritime is south-west of the Loire Valley and close enough to become part of your trip if you go to the Loire castles first;
- located on the Atlantic coast, it has marvelous beaches, some of them almost empty in early summer or early fall (avoid July-August when it's really crowded);
- the climate is wonderful, the number of sunny days throughout the year is second only to Cote D'Azur, the average temperatures are about 20C in the summer and 5C in the winter ( note these are averages, it's not 20C in the summer, it's much warmer!);
- the local economy is mainly relying on maritime industry, tourism, cognac and pineau (more on these below);
- seafood is amazing!;
- places to see - La Rochelle, Royan, Saintes, St Jean d'Angely, Rochefort, Île d'Aix, Île de Ré and Île d'Oléron;
- La Rochelle is not an international airport but there are charters from Britain, alternatively you may use Nantes or Bordeaux.

A couple of accommodations:
Between Saintes and Cognac is the gite you see on the left - http://www.giteducalme.com/
In Gemozac - true bourgeois mansion - http://www.alwaysonvacation.co.uk/holiday-rentals/174015.html
In the La Rochelle area - http://www.alwaysonvacation.co.uk/holiday-rentals/196846.html#photo
Nice one near La Rochelle, very good for children: http://www.alwaysonvacation.co.uk/holiday-rentals/121629.html
I like this one too: http://www.alwaysonvacation.co.uk/holiday-rentals/196844.html
If you're into bold design statements: http://www.alwaysonvacation.co.uk/holiday-rentals/628913.html
This one is advertised as Royan accommodation but it seems more like Gemozac, not bad, quite simple but well maintained - http://www.alwaysonvacation.co.uk/holiday-rentals/118403.html
Between Royan and Bordeaux - http://queensville.co.uk/La-Vieille-Grange/index.htm
Same area as above - http://gitesdegarbellant.fr/one-gite-house-barn-cottage-appartements-villas-un/default.asp
Various villas for rent on Ile-de-Re - http://www.bon-sejour-en-france.com/ile-de-re/ile-de-re-accommodation.html

My personal choices:
http://www.beaugite.com/location/pays/france/dpt17/373/infos.htm - quiet, yet close enough to beaches when driving;
north of La Rochelle, closer to Nantes airport: http://www.lamaisonenpierre.com/
In Beneze, next to Royan, one of my favorite cottages in the area: http://www.beneze.net/ ;
Fabulous place with chateau and cottages on site: http://www.chateaumouillepied.fr/ - close to Saintes;
On the already famous island Ille-de-Re: http://www.bon-sejour-en-france.com/ile-de-re/270/holidays-rental-Sainte---Marie-Cottage-Sirene-.htm ;
Something special half way between Loire Valley and the Atlantic beaches: http://www.legrandsaule.co.uk/

Links to local pages:
La Rochelle - http://www.francethisway.com/places/larochelle.php , http://www.holidays-la-rochelle.co.uk/ ;
Royan - http://www.ot-royan.fr/FRAccueil.asp?lg=UK with version in English;
Saintes - http://www.francethisway.com/places/saintes.php , http://www.ville-saintes.fr/index.php?id=725 ;
St Jean d'Angely - http://www.a-taste-of-france.com/dangley.html , http://www.frenchconnections.co.uk/en/guide/city/142817-st-jean-d-angely-charente-maritime ;
Rochefort - http://www.bernezac.com/Rochefort_uk.htm , http://www.ville-rochefort.fr/accueil - in French , http://www.francethisway.com/places/rochefort.php ;
Ile d'Aix - http://www.france-for-visitors.com/atlantic/la-rochelle/ile-d-aix.html , http://www.bernezac.com/Aix_uk.htm ;
Ile de Re - http://www.bernezac.com/Re_uk.htm , http://www.holidays-iledere.co.uk/ .

What to taste:

*Photo courtesy of www.cognacnet.com

Pineau - this is an aperitif, a type of liquor wine (mistelle or vin de liqueur) made from fresh fermenting grape juice added to brandy (Cognac eau-de-vie). The fermentation stops and the result is pineau. It's delicious and a bit tricky, limit it to a small glass prior to your meal. There are white, rose and red pineau, depending on the vines used. The white is made of Ugni Blanc, Folle Blanche and Colombard, and occasionally of Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Montils. The rose and red are made of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. Have it chilled. If you're lucky to visit in a good year, you may have the rare chance to see the harvest picked manually with the proper celebrations on the vineyards. Join, don't think twice!







*Photo courtesy of www.beveragewarehouse.com


Cognac - this famous product of the French unmistakable taste for spirits is made of distilled wine. The vines used - white ugni, folle blanche and colombard - are grown specifically to produce material for distilling.

The distillation is double and after that the brandy ages in oak barrels. The oak gives away its tannin to the brandy and makes for the unique taste and the amber colour. The alcoholic strength drops in the dark cellars through evaporation. It's important and known as"the part for the angels". Once bottled, the ageing of cognac stops.


Finding a place where to taste both pineau and cognac is not difficult. In the bigger towns and villages there are stores offering the local produce where you will also be educated on the history of the drink. If you have time and are interested, definitely visit the town Cognac where you can enjoy tasting some of the world's finest cognacs and take a tour of the museum dedicated to the drink - http://www.westernfrancetouristboard.com/cognac.html . Driving between the small villages will also provide you with numerous opportunities - just watch for the signs. The cooperatives are always good spots and the prices are very reasonable. For more distinguished taste and atmosphere, opt for the mansions ruling over the vineyards - the signs on the roads are usually theirs.

More on food, drink and general area information here: http://www.discover-poitou-charentes.com/food-drink/local-delicacies.htm It's a lovely website which I wish all the best. In the next post I'm going to ask Tarot about the places I listed here. :)))

A sidenote: Just look at this bijou! It's a miniature castle next to Chinon: http://www.alwaysonvacation.co.uk/holiday-rentals/481440.html

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