This seems an important question these days. It may have been widely discussed and most probably by people far more experienced than me but here is my take. The second worst thing after being rejected is to be told you are not writing "high enough". I was recently exposed to a situation when I overheard an editor speaking of someone's writing as "blogging". It set me on a mental journey back to the times when I was studying philology and reading all classics from the ancient Greeks to Garcia Marquez. While I absolutely love Marquez, I wonder if we all have to become the next one or we could live a happy writing life just "blogging".
What did the editor mean? Is blogging cheap? I can think of at least five blogs which I consider worth reading as much as I consider worthy "Love In Times Of Cholera". The standartization freaks me out. Any kind of inforced frame wakes up the rebel inside me. The structure requirements that bothered Ursula Le Guin are also annoyng me a great deal. Not only that but some of the world reknowned authors like Jane Austen, for example, are sometimes accused in failing to develop their plot according to structure requirements. Surely, Austen is seriously concerned and regretting the unfogivable mistake. Yet, she remains in the hearts and minds of hundreds of thousands while tons of books written according to all rules are either forgotten on the next day or never published at all. So, what's the truth?
I dare to say the truth must be the inner one. If I like blogging and this template and tone suits my creativity well, I see no reason why I should write books in a totally different way. Yes, there must be movement, connection, and, as Le Guin says, focus - a book can not be series of fragments (although I've read such books and they can be remarkably good) or at least not all the time but who says each book has to be developed by certain standards? Agents do. Publishers do. They say the public wants this too. Does it? How come some blogs generate more readers than published books attract buyers? I had hoped, may be naively, that in the 21st century - an era of communicational outburst, offering hundreds of ways to express oneself, the accent would be on innovative, daring thinking and writing. I, for one, want to read more such works. Instead, the next "high" versus "low" debate seems to be taking place.
"Blogging" versus "writing". Those who scratch the surface versus the explorers of depths unknown. Ah, but I know this story. I've spent too many years studying, writing and critiquing geniuses' works for the sake of getting an A. The result - some of them I loved, some hated and still do, none of them I felt qualified to critique. Because they had achieved something I haven't yet - following their inner voice and playing against great odds for the right to do what they wanted to do the way they felt it should be done. Not the way they were necessarily told to do it. A fellow writer told me recently: "The only way to write well is to write what you want to read." I am 100% with her on that.
So, I was exploring the writer's face while this editor was pouring rubbish over the author's head. The writer was shrinking there, right in front of my eyes. He probably deleted his blog when he got back home. He may have rushed to the library and borrowed literary theory to read for the next couple of months. The manuscript may have been ritually burned on the front lawn. To hell with the blogging cheapness, embrace the classy paragraph-long sentences and thoughts requiring decoding while digging deep into the next desire-action-conflict-resolution piece. Or he may have bought "Plotting For Dummies" or similar and rewrote his work to the point when it was perfectly fitting the dummies part but had nothing to do with his own mind. I keep asking myself when the writer must set the limit. Where should be raised the border wall and put the "Stop" sign?
I must state here that I have nothing against the structure that has proven as working tool over the centuries from Aristotle to Stephen King. But I do stand up for the right to explore new territories and not be filed under categories. It is also true that by doing so a writer should be prepared to see his all works in the dusty boxes on top of the wardrobe and accept the thought that book signings and recognition may have to be postponed for after his death. For some reason unknown death seems to add much desired patina to the dusty works and turn them more often than not into marketable pieces. Still, I believe the personal satisfaction of writing (or any other creative endeavor) should be pursued and is worthy a war or two.
For the sake of myself and all bloggers, I suggest we start creating "blogature". That's for blogging and literature. Chances are it will never hit the bookstores' shelves but may earn the public's award which, as all Hollywood stars love to say, is the most important, no? Hey, it's the Age Of Aquarius, freedom of expression and mind should be the key words. Or, if you know or like Tarot, The Fool should be ruling.
Here is another poet on "blogature": http://mutiso.blogspot.com/2006/03/blogature-vs-publishers.html Check out some of the writers' blogs listed, there are really good pieces there.
Tuesday, April 27, 2010
Scorpio revelation
I couldn't resist but borrow this from Michael Lutin's astrological website:
"Only a Scorpio could be both romantically idealistic and depressed and grieving at the same time."
Ha! The man knows me, apparently!
"Only a Scorpio could be both romantically idealistic and depressed and grieving at the same time."
Ha! The man knows me, apparently!
Monday, April 26, 2010
Vacationing and Mr. Darcy
Because the surrounding arrogance irritates me a great deal these days and makes me feel quite a bit tired, I decided I will go on vacation after all. Just like that, against all financial wisdom and family advice. I'll take my son and hit the Atlantic beaches, we may even go to Biaritz. I'll share what I've found about this area in the next couple of posts. I'll, of course, ask Tarot which place would be best to choose as well. :) I will also take my netbook and... write!
You may expect cheesy romantic flavour which always accompanies my trips to France and I love it! If I could choose now, I'd opt for a dark, handsome stranger with broad shoulders (mandatory), tall and slender (preferred), aloof (recommended) and highly intelligent (a must) to become my next book's hero. I already wrote one of those and one of the editors told me he made her feel "uneasy". I bit my lips to not point that a true Mr. Darcy was supposed to make her feel this way, no? But she may had never read Jane Austen which would have made the whole thing pointless. The important thing is I can never get enough of dark handsome strangers which behave like the king of the world. It concerns me. I may have insecurity issues. Or height issues. Or shrinks know what. Yet, I indulge myself writing again and again about Mr. Darcy. It's true I try to make him a bit more contemporary, so to speak but I still can not imagine him doing the dishes or speaking slang... I think this will be the topic of my next novel which, hopefully, won't be buried. LOL
You may expect cheesy romantic flavour which always accompanies my trips to France and I love it! If I could choose now, I'd opt for a dark, handsome stranger with broad shoulders (mandatory), tall and slender (preferred), aloof (recommended) and highly intelligent (a must) to become my next book's hero. I already wrote one of those and one of the editors told me he made her feel "uneasy". I bit my lips to not point that a true Mr. Darcy was supposed to make her feel this way, no? But she may had never read Jane Austen which would have made the whole thing pointless. The important thing is I can never get enough of dark handsome strangers which behave like the king of the world. It concerns me. I may have insecurity issues. Or height issues. Or shrinks know what. Yet, I indulge myself writing again and again about Mr. Darcy. It's true I try to make him a bit more contemporary, so to speak but I still can not imagine him doing the dishes or speaking slang... I think this will be the topic of my next novel which, hopefully, won't be buried. LOL
Funerals and all that jazz
Had to attend the funeral of my own novel yesterday. Time came to kill one of my darlings - this dreaded by writers point when it becomes clear that what looked like a promising lovely book will never make it to the shelves of the bookstores. Did I cry? A lot. Did I give up. Surely not. I am translating it for another market. I am a resurrection believer. Everything is energy. What goes around, comes around. Did I learn something? Definitely. I am stronger than I thought.
In additon, received a great children's book to translate as well. The writer is the one I quoted a couple of posts earlier. Love her writing, it makes me smile. Reminds me of my own childhood when, instead of playing outside, I wrote absurd stories which, by the way, were even published and awarded. Where and when did I lose this talent remains unknown.
Saxophone helps as well - a midnight cry singing of oceans and starry nights, men and women engaged in the dance of life. glasses with sparkling champagne and crickets in love... This kind of stuff. Anticipating the summer which, I know, will bring something extraordinary.
In additon, received a great children's book to translate as well. The writer is the one I quoted a couple of posts earlier. Love her writing, it makes me smile. Reminds me of my own childhood when, instead of playing outside, I wrote absurd stories which, by the way, were even published and awarded. Where and when did I lose this talent remains unknown.
Saxophone helps as well - a midnight cry singing of oceans and starry nights, men and women engaged in the dance of life. glasses with sparkling champagne and crickets in love... This kind of stuff. Anticipating the summer which, I know, will bring something extraordinary.
Thursday, April 22, 2010
Tarot for places upon request :)
I received a few messages regarding the tarot for places. It seems many of you are feeling the summer fever and would like to know how the cards would describe the villages from the last Loire Valley post. I used my Harmonious Tarot - http://taroteca.multiply.com/photos/album/389/Harmonious - the most romantic I have, and the results I'm posting below. Hope you all find the best place for a truly hot summer. ;)
Rou-Marson - 5 of Wands - surprisingly busy! Lots of nature there - you will have the chance to explore trees, flowers, and even the green grass of the valley where you can have a picnic or two. However, the place seems to have a bit of a restless vibe. Angelic looks concealing competitive spirit. Very French, no? Sports are highly recommended, wrestling, if you are into it, too. Avoid fighting with your mate. :))
Les Ulmes - 3 of Swords - appropriate, considering the past of the village. Yes, there was pain there - the pain of a man who became famous sacrificing himself. It was love he sacrificed for. A tempting place where you can meet a nymph or too if you keep your eyes open. Don't wear your heart on your sleeve there or it may be stolen and you may remain forever waiting on the river bank. Not recommended for couples. Good for daring singles. ;)
Montfort - 10 of Wands - very nice, busy little place. Yes, it also has a chateau which is a controversial topic between the residents of Montfort and Cizay-la-Madeleine. As you see on the card, the people of Montfort are gazing dreamily towards the chateau. I bet the other villagers are doing the same. :)) If you go there, you will find joy in gathering herbs and flowers and having picnics in the fragrant fields. Or you may escape the sun under the trees.
Cizay-la-Madeleine - 7 of Chalices - interesting. Very tempting. If you are in the beginning of a relationship, take your honey there. It will bring abundance of dreams and options for lazy afternoons, meaningful conversations, and a revelation here and there. Be careful not to share too much though. The honey may see things you wish to conceal. Don't carry mirrors with yourself - danger of showing too many wrinkles. Do take your hat and sunscreen with you. If you are in an established relationship, go ahead. Chances are you have already seen each other's wrinkles often enough. :))
Doue-la-Fontaine - 3 of Pentacles - very nice. Excellent spot for couples who feel comfortable in each other's company. Many fun choices offered, things to see or do, artistic endeavors will flourish as well as your willingness to be together. Have no second thoughts.
Brossay - Ace of Swords - energetic and a bit surprising. Winds should be blowing hard there, you may have more than one bad hair day. On the other hand, you will feel capable of doing anything and everything. Great for beginning relationships - conquer the partner with a swing. Do take your fancy long dresses, the wind will accentuate your curves. If you own elegant fans - even better. Do practice dancing.
Mountreil-Bellay - 8 of Pentacles - abundant, rich, elegant place. Enough art and history to satisfy your hunger for culture. Relaxed and comfy - for those seeking peaceful vacation. A place where you can reflect on yourself or the other, or both. Requires certain style. Do pay attention to your shoes and hair style. :))
Le-Puy-Notre-Dame - Queen of Swords - impressive. Seems like the village has more to offer than usually advertised. Strong women are raised there for sure. Nice weather - the clouds are quickly cleared and the sun is warm. A bit of scarce growth but you may not need forests around. Instead, you may have to attend an event or two where you'll have the chance to show your intelligence, knowledge, and queenly manners. Do practice and learn etiquette. If you're into weapons, take them with you but be careful at the customs! :)) Recommended for singles and intellectuals.
Vaudelnay - 6 of Wands - a bit puzzling. The small village looks like another hidden jewel. If you are into showing off, go straight to Vaudelnay. Do take your best clothes with you and practice your horseback riding. Fancy hats are almost mandatory. Do study gardening and botanical magazines. Men should avoid it, single women would be better accepted. However, if you are in a committed relationship, you will have a blast. :))
Rou-Marson - 5 of Wands - surprisingly busy! Lots of nature there - you will have the chance to explore trees, flowers, and even the green grass of the valley where you can have a picnic or two. However, the place seems to have a bit of a restless vibe. Angelic looks concealing competitive spirit. Very French, no? Sports are highly recommended, wrestling, if you are into it, too. Avoid fighting with your mate. :))
Les Ulmes - 3 of Swords - appropriate, considering the past of the village. Yes, there was pain there - the pain of a man who became famous sacrificing himself. It was love he sacrificed for. A tempting place where you can meet a nymph or too if you keep your eyes open. Don't wear your heart on your sleeve there or it may be stolen and you may remain forever waiting on the river bank. Not recommended for couples. Good for daring singles. ;)
Montfort - 10 of Wands - very nice, busy little place. Yes, it also has a chateau which is a controversial topic between the residents of Montfort and Cizay-la-Madeleine. As you see on the card, the people of Montfort are gazing dreamily towards the chateau. I bet the other villagers are doing the same. :)) If you go there, you will find joy in gathering herbs and flowers and having picnics in the fragrant fields. Or you may escape the sun under the trees.
Cizay-la-Madeleine - 7 of Chalices - interesting. Very tempting. If you are in the beginning of a relationship, take your honey there. It will bring abundance of dreams and options for lazy afternoons, meaningful conversations, and a revelation here and there. Be careful not to share too much though. The honey may see things you wish to conceal. Don't carry mirrors with yourself - danger of showing too many wrinkles. Do take your hat and sunscreen with you. If you are in an established relationship, go ahead. Chances are you have already seen each other's wrinkles often enough. :))
Doue-la-Fontaine - 3 of Pentacles - very nice. Excellent spot for couples who feel comfortable in each other's company. Many fun choices offered, things to see or do, artistic endeavors will flourish as well as your willingness to be together. Have no second thoughts.
Brossay - Ace of Swords - energetic and a bit surprising. Winds should be blowing hard there, you may have more than one bad hair day. On the other hand, you will feel capable of doing anything and everything. Great for beginning relationships - conquer the partner with a swing. Do take your fancy long dresses, the wind will accentuate your curves. If you own elegant fans - even better. Do practice dancing.
Mountreil-Bellay - 8 of Pentacles - abundant, rich, elegant place. Enough art and history to satisfy your hunger for culture. Relaxed and comfy - for those seeking peaceful vacation. A place where you can reflect on yourself or the other, or both. Requires certain style. Do pay attention to your shoes and hair style. :))
Le-Puy-Notre-Dame - Queen of Swords - impressive. Seems like the village has more to offer than usually advertised. Strong women are raised there for sure. Nice weather - the clouds are quickly cleared and the sun is warm. A bit of scarce growth but you may not need forests around. Instead, you may have to attend an event or two where you'll have the chance to show your intelligence, knowledge, and queenly manners. Do practice and learn etiquette. If you're into weapons, take them with you but be careful at the customs! :)) Recommended for singles and intellectuals.
Vaudelnay - 6 of Wands - a bit puzzling. The small village looks like another hidden jewel. If you are into showing off, go straight to Vaudelnay. Do take your best clothes with you and practice your horseback riding. Fancy hats are almost mandatory. Do study gardening and botanical magazines. Men should avoid it, single women would be better accepted. However, if you are in a committed relationship, you will have a blast. :))
Ladybug, ladybug...
She comes in my days to share her nights.
"I dream of him," she says clenching her slender fingers. I love the nail polish - "Bull's Blood". So dark, so intense. "I write him notes which I never sent. I sit on the lawn in front of my shabby house and think of him. He is killing me."
"Who is he?"
"The boy from the carnival ship. My parents took me to the Tropic of the Capricorn... He was a Capricorn, you know? So fair, so light... I was dark. Too dark for his liking, yet he told me he loved my Gypsy scarf."
"What happened?"
"The ship reached a harbour."
"He left?"
"We all did. Each on a different path."
"It happens to all of us. All the time. We meet people, we separate from people."
"I never separated from him. Don't you see it? I switched countries, cities, houses, men, jobs, but he wouldn't go away. My life was spent in running away from him."
"You can't run away from your own mind if you don't want to close the drawers and let the memories rest."
"Rest... I forgot the meaning of "rest". The summer is coming. The ships will sail again."
She makes me feel dizzy. The cards are ringing. Ding-dang-dong.
"What do the cards say?"
Eight of Wands, Two of Wands, Page of Cups, Three of Wands... How can I? Should I?
"What is it?" She pours the wine down her throat. Her vision is blurred, her eyes show the bottles drank. Yet, she still radiates this grace of the past which must have drawn him to her. Passion that translates to the cards. Thoughts that rule the spread. She is reaching him, I can see it.
"The cards show you thinking of him... A lot. Time and space are relative, you know?"
"Does he remember me?"
"I don't know... I can see him feeling you... May be."
"How?"
"You make him dreamy. He may recall the boy he was then... Yes, he may."
"What is the end?"
"The end? I don't see an end here. Not yet."
"The three, what does it mean?"
"A ship... coming to your harbour."
"You think..."
"I don't. You are confusing me." Ding-dang-dong, the cards sing.
"Why are you shaking?"
"You're ruling my cards. I can't trust this reading. It's you, not me, here."
Liar. It's not her. It's the boy in the vineyards that summer when the plump grapes were catching the late afternoon sun and I was laying on the scorched ground. The juice was dropping in my hair and the bees were drinking of my curls. He had been looking at me for hours, he said. The boy turning into man; his sky blue eyes bathing me in the waves of the ocean nearby.
"Where are you?" She asks twisting her cigarette nervously.
"In a valley. Someone drew the Commanderie card for me once and I thought "La Rochelle"..."
"What happened there?"
"I lost something. Gladly."
"Why didn't you stay?"
"I ran away."
"Why?"
"I was wise, I thought."
"I see... I envy you."
"Don't. This man of yours... This boy, did you meet him again?"
"How could I? Three worlds are separating us. The physical where he is thousands of kilometres away; the emotional where he attached himself while my heart was falling apart, and the world of the rich where I can't enter."
"Yet, the Wheel of Fortune is always turning."
"Not mine. Thank you for the reading. I may write him another letter tonight."
"The Moon is waxing. Your power is growing."
"Yeah, yeah... Take care."
"You too."
She leaves in her dancing manner, her curves tempting the eye, her black hair twisting like a snake on her back. How could he leave her? She was a Boticelli painting walking the Earth. One of the goddesses. Ding-dang-dong. Yes, I can feel her too. She's shaking my existence with her insane passion. I hate her for awakening memories I had so carefully buried. I draw a card. The Lovers. Another. Ace of Wands. Last. The Devil. I pray.
"Please, save me from the temptation of the past and grant me the grace of the future."
Ding-dang-dong. The touch is gentle. She lands on my hand in her regal red mantle. Dots, dots, dots, like grapes falling on the fertile ground. She caresses me, she promises me rainbows. A messenger of the faeries, an emissary of the skies.
"Ladybug, ladybug, fly his way,
And tell him I still wait..."
"I dream of him," she says clenching her slender fingers. I love the nail polish - "Bull's Blood". So dark, so intense. "I write him notes which I never sent. I sit on the lawn in front of my shabby house and think of him. He is killing me."
"Who is he?"
"The boy from the carnival ship. My parents took me to the Tropic of the Capricorn... He was a Capricorn, you know? So fair, so light... I was dark. Too dark for his liking, yet he told me he loved my Gypsy scarf."
"What happened?"
"The ship reached a harbour."
"He left?"
"We all did. Each on a different path."
"It happens to all of us. All the time. We meet people, we separate from people."
"I never separated from him. Don't you see it? I switched countries, cities, houses, men, jobs, but he wouldn't go away. My life was spent in running away from him."
"You can't run away from your own mind if you don't want to close the drawers and let the memories rest."
"Rest... I forgot the meaning of "rest". The summer is coming. The ships will sail again."
She makes me feel dizzy. The cards are ringing. Ding-dang-dong.
"What do the cards say?"
Eight of Wands, Two of Wands, Page of Cups, Three of Wands... How can I? Should I?
"What is it?" She pours the wine down her throat. Her vision is blurred, her eyes show the bottles drank. Yet, she still radiates this grace of the past which must have drawn him to her. Passion that translates to the cards. Thoughts that rule the spread. She is reaching him, I can see it.
"The cards show you thinking of him... A lot. Time and space are relative, you know?"
"Does he remember me?"
"I don't know... I can see him feeling you... May be."
"How?"
"You make him dreamy. He may recall the boy he was then... Yes, he may."
"What is the end?"
"The end? I don't see an end here. Not yet."
"The three, what does it mean?"
"A ship... coming to your harbour."
"You think..."
"I don't. You are confusing me." Ding-dang-dong, the cards sing.
"Why are you shaking?"
"You're ruling my cards. I can't trust this reading. It's you, not me, here."
Liar. It's not her. It's the boy in the vineyards that summer when the plump grapes were catching the late afternoon sun and I was laying on the scorched ground. The juice was dropping in my hair and the bees were drinking of my curls. He had been looking at me for hours, he said. The boy turning into man; his sky blue eyes bathing me in the waves of the ocean nearby.
"Where are you?" She asks twisting her cigarette nervously.
"In a valley. Someone drew the Commanderie card for me once and I thought "La Rochelle"..."
"What happened there?"
"I lost something. Gladly."
"Why didn't you stay?"
"I ran away."
"Why?"
"I was wise, I thought."
"I see... I envy you."
"Don't. This man of yours... This boy, did you meet him again?"
"How could I? Three worlds are separating us. The physical where he is thousands of kilometres away; the emotional where he attached himself while my heart was falling apart, and the world of the rich where I can't enter."
"Yet, the Wheel of Fortune is always turning."
"Not mine. Thank you for the reading. I may write him another letter tonight."
"The Moon is waxing. Your power is growing."
"Yeah, yeah... Take care."
"You too."
She leaves in her dancing manner, her curves tempting the eye, her black hair twisting like a snake on her back. How could he leave her? She was a Boticelli painting walking the Earth. One of the goddesses. Ding-dang-dong. Yes, I can feel her too. She's shaking my existence with her insane passion. I hate her for awakening memories I had so carefully buried. I draw a card. The Lovers. Another. Ace of Wands. Last. The Devil. I pray.
"Please, save me from the temptation of the past and grant me the grace of the future."
Ding-dang-dong. The touch is gentle. She lands on my hand in her regal red mantle. Dots, dots, dots, like grapes falling on the fertile ground. She caresses me, she promises me rainbows. A messenger of the faeries, an emissary of the skies.
"Ladybug, ladybug, fly his way,
And tell him I still wait..."
Monday, April 19, 2010
What happened to the Monday?
Frank Sinatra - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LL5YrVgZ_vU&feature=related
Robbie Williams - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q5uKa1bDtsk&feature=related
and dream of things that never were. What is your most daring dream, the one that won't let you sleep, the one that brings you shivers and yet, you will be lost without it? I have two. Both are so insane and impossible in other people's eyes that I stopped sharing them almost right after I tried for a first time... It's a bit of a lonely existence, the one of a dreamer, isn't it? But how much lonelier I would have been without this light which, I think, I see on the other side of the river... Or it may be the ocean and I can hear the song of the waves - eternal, promising, tempting. Somewhere in the dark a saxophone cries in the night and a prey bird calls on her lover. If anyone knows the man with the saxophone, please tell him I make great martini and bring him over. :)
Sunday, April 18, 2010
Portrait of a woman
In a distant corner of the South, on a dusty square, under the scorching afternoon sun, slightly to the right of the cafeteria, is located the bakery. Every morning we join the army bicycling to get their fresh croissants and baguette. The angelic scent is felt from behind the turn and attracts strayed cars from the main road. They make a mini traffic jam in front of Bernadette's window.
Bernadette loves aliens. They are an endless source of stories during the long winter evenings and an opportunity to once again demonstrate she had lived her youth in Paris and was a worldly woman of broad understanding. According to the rumor, she not just lived there but conquered this Paris with a swing. Having not finished school and never touched the door of an university, Bernadette found a job in a patisserie using her "charm". Thanks to the time spent in her grandmother and mother's kitchens, she quickly improved her position both on the ground floor and in the upper apartment of the owner. It happened many years ago. Bernadette states she is sixty-five but the gossipy elders are refusing to take her any younger than seventy. Bernadette ignores them with all the dignity of her mighty stance and frequently pretends she hasn't heard their order.
Bernadette's youth has long been a beloved subject in the village, skillfully fueled by herself after returning from Paris. It happened too soon - only two years after she had left. Although young, the wise Bernadette had quickly realized good men were hard to find in Paris and her invaluable looks and skills would fade while looking for one. The skills she refuses to discuss but puts on a secretive smile.
It seems her husband highly appreciates them for he is gazing at her with adoration and pride. Claude, as his name is, is a tiny old man, a wine maker, earth lover, in a straw Panama hat. He is about three times smaller than his wife but leads a daily war against the gossips in the village to defend her reputation. No evening passes in the cafe when Claude won't stand up for Bernadette's chastity, albeit slightly scratched here and there. He says women like her should be chosen to represent Mariana - this icon of the French femininity. It usually causes mass choking. I can not blame them. No one knew Laetitia Casta at the time but Mariana has never been a piece of heavy machinery.
After coming back to her native village, Bernadette flourished in the warm sun on the heavy, fertile soil. She returned to her roots and opened the bakery on the square in the family house where she was born. Less than a month later Bernadette noticed the prospective bachelor Claude. He had been to war which, in her value system, was the highest form of endurance test - a quality she identified as essential to a future husband. And the moment she had made her choice, she had already conquered him. They married three months later. She bore his children but they flew to the big cities and now come to visit only on weekends and for the summer. Bernadette has not yet forgiven them for making her a grandma too soon.
This femme formidable loves not only newcomers but everything big - houses, cars, hairstyles (all her hair is placed on top of her head), skirts, blouses (they look borrowed from a Velasquez painting), gardens, chairs, beds (on hers three Bernadettes may sleep comfortably) and most of all - bushes.
Bernadette considers growing flowers an absolute waste of time and space. Flowers require permanent care while the only result is tiny colorful spots here and there in the backyard. Bushes are quite a different story. They can not be missed even from afar, bloom longer, want almost no care and protect the yard from the watchful eyes of nosy neighbors. The outcome of this brilliant theory is a backyard resembling the keep of La Rochelle, surrounded by tall fence and high lilacs, cypresses and ten more species of unknown shrubs she gets delivered from Marseille. She is a proud owner of this jungle while Claude is still trying to swallow the ruined crops that couldn't survive the vigorous growth of the bushes.
Bernadette almost squeaks of joy when she sees the bikes. We provide her with sweet time for rest and chat. Although my French is terrible, she keeps asking questions and moves slowly behind the window carefully packing my croissants. It looks like a sacred act of revelation among the baguettes. Feels like a confession - sometimes relieving, often uncomfortable, especially when we touch the topic on the last underwear trends. Bernadette is a woman of fashion but complaints she receives few magazines these days and the postman behaves unforgivably taking her stuff to his wife. She says she has to go to Marseille to buy a proper dress. Very troublesome.
The rumor has it that Bernadette loves big bottles as well. She's been reportedly spotted pouring aromatic wine down her throat and dropping a bit here and there in her dough. It would explain the always cheerful mood of her customers. Providing the villagers with these special goods has turned Bernadette into an icon and main contributor to the village's prosperity. For how would they survive the endless hours in the vineyards without the proper enthusiasm?
That is why everyone felt terribly concerned when in the end of the summer Bernadette went to Marseille for her regular shopping tour and didn't come back on the Sunday evening as she had always done before. The priest prayed; the cafe owner gave away wine; Claude opened and closed the bakery and even made some bread himself; all was done to welcome Bernadette when she would finally come home but she didn't. I waited on the square like everyone else, sipping from my free wine and wondering in the darkness of the fragrant night.
Bernadette loves aliens. They are an endless source of stories during the long winter evenings and an opportunity to once again demonstrate she had lived her youth in Paris and was a worldly woman of broad understanding. According to the rumor, she not just lived there but conquered this Paris with a swing. Having not finished school and never touched the door of an university, Bernadette found a job in a patisserie using her "charm". Thanks to the time spent in her grandmother and mother's kitchens, she quickly improved her position both on the ground floor and in the upper apartment of the owner. It happened many years ago. Bernadette states she is sixty-five but the gossipy elders are refusing to take her any younger than seventy. Bernadette ignores them with all the dignity of her mighty stance and frequently pretends she hasn't heard their order.
Bernadette's youth has long been a beloved subject in the village, skillfully fueled by herself after returning from Paris. It happened too soon - only two years after she had left. Although young, the wise Bernadette had quickly realized good men were hard to find in Paris and her invaluable looks and skills would fade while looking for one. The skills she refuses to discuss but puts on a secretive smile.
It seems her husband highly appreciates them for he is gazing at her with adoration and pride. Claude, as his name is, is a tiny old man, a wine maker, earth lover, in a straw Panama hat. He is about three times smaller than his wife but leads a daily war against the gossips in the village to defend her reputation. No evening passes in the cafe when Claude won't stand up for Bernadette's chastity, albeit slightly scratched here and there. He says women like her should be chosen to represent Mariana - this icon of the French femininity. It usually causes mass choking. I can not blame them. No one knew Laetitia Casta at the time but Mariana has never been a piece of heavy machinery.
After coming back to her native village, Bernadette flourished in the warm sun on the heavy, fertile soil. She returned to her roots and opened the bakery on the square in the family house where she was born. Less than a month later Bernadette noticed the prospective bachelor Claude. He had been to war which, in her value system, was the highest form of endurance test - a quality she identified as essential to a future husband. And the moment she had made her choice, she had already conquered him. They married three months later. She bore his children but they flew to the big cities and now come to visit only on weekends and for the summer. Bernadette has not yet forgiven them for making her a grandma too soon.
This femme formidable loves not only newcomers but everything big - houses, cars, hairstyles (all her hair is placed on top of her head), skirts, blouses (they look borrowed from a Velasquez painting), gardens, chairs, beds (on hers three Bernadettes may sleep comfortably) and most of all - bushes.
Bernadette considers growing flowers an absolute waste of time and space. Flowers require permanent care while the only result is tiny colorful spots here and there in the backyard. Bushes are quite a different story. They can not be missed even from afar, bloom longer, want almost no care and protect the yard from the watchful eyes of nosy neighbors. The outcome of this brilliant theory is a backyard resembling the keep of La Rochelle, surrounded by tall fence and high lilacs, cypresses and ten more species of unknown shrubs she gets delivered from Marseille. She is a proud owner of this jungle while Claude is still trying to swallow the ruined crops that couldn't survive the vigorous growth of the bushes.
Bernadette almost squeaks of joy when she sees the bikes. We provide her with sweet time for rest and chat. Although my French is terrible, she keeps asking questions and moves slowly behind the window carefully packing my croissants. It looks like a sacred act of revelation among the baguettes. Feels like a confession - sometimes relieving, often uncomfortable, especially when we touch the topic on the last underwear trends. Bernadette is a woman of fashion but complaints she receives few magazines these days and the postman behaves unforgivably taking her stuff to his wife. She says she has to go to Marseille to buy a proper dress. Very troublesome.
The rumor has it that Bernadette loves big bottles as well. She's been reportedly spotted pouring aromatic wine down her throat and dropping a bit here and there in her dough. It would explain the always cheerful mood of her customers. Providing the villagers with these special goods has turned Bernadette into an icon and main contributor to the village's prosperity. For how would they survive the endless hours in the vineyards without the proper enthusiasm?
That is why everyone felt terribly concerned when in the end of the summer Bernadette went to Marseille for her regular shopping tour and didn't come back on the Sunday evening as she had always done before. The priest prayed; the cafe owner gave away wine; Claude opened and closed the bakery and even made some bread himself; all was done to welcome Bernadette when she would finally come home but she didn't. I waited on the square like everyone else, sipping from my free wine and wondering in the darkness of the fragrant night.
Saturday, April 17, 2010
On a lazy afternoon...
On a lazy sunny afternoon I deal with whatever questions I have received regarding recent posts. There are a couple of them asking about sights and accommodation away from the main chateaux route in the Loire Valley. I look outside and see the sun is going west. So, I look west from Saumur which I chose before for a focal point of my posts, and here is what I suggest you do if you go west.
You can drive either towards Doue-la-Fontaine (and I strongly recommend you rent a car if willing to explore the side roads) or towards Mountreil-Bellay. In both cases you will pass by Cave Grolleau where you can taste some really fine wines. Then, reaching Pace, you will have to choose either road.
If you decide to go to Doue-la-Fontaine, you can also explore the Rou-Marson area and dine at the cave restaurant http://www.cavesdemarson.com/cellars.html . Although I've heard people being unhappy with the service, I personally have never had any complaints. In the village there is also a nice small castle which is often overlooked. You will then reach Les Ulmes - a tiny village with interesting stories to tell. The official website is in French: http://www.lesulmes.mairie49.fr/ but this document will give you an idea: http://www.doneohostmaking.com/Miracle/LesUlmes.pdf . Never miss a place where miracles happened for yours may be on the way! :) On the other side of the road you will see the smallest "town" in the community - Montfort. There you can taste very good wines of Anjou and the rose trees are worth seeing. Typically French, the residents of Montfort and Cizay-la-Madeleine are arguing over the ownership of Chateau of Epinats built in the XVII century. The Madeleine's website is here: http://www.cizay.la.madeleine.mairie49.fr/ .
*Photo courtesy of www.farm-cottages-holidays.com
Doue-la-Fontaine is an ancient town which was identified as an inhabited spot as early as the 7th century. There are ruins uncovered which can be seen close to the springs. In the town was located one of the oldest habitable donjon (keeps) in France, built about the year 900. The castle is believed to be the first European castle built of stone around 950.There are also troglodyte dwellings and commercial mushroom-growing caves. The Zoo is partially built within the troglodyte dwellings. Doue is titled the rose capital of France and a "Festival of the Rose" is held annually in July. More than 800 varieties of roses can be seen during the event. The official site (in French) is: http://www.ville-douelafontaine.fr/ . The zoo website has an English version: http://www.zoodoue.fr/ . There is a good hotel at the edge of the town - Hôtel De La Saulaie with a huge park and a swimming pool. There are many others, of course, but this one is what I personally know.
From Doue you can drive straight to Mountreil-Bellay and thw only village on your way will be Brossay. While there is a winery which carries the name Chateau-de-Brossay it is not located in the Brossay village. :)) It is in Cléré-sur-Layon, further west. Therefore, don't look for the Chateau or the wines in this Brossay. There is a fine chateau in another Brossay, in Bretagne. Very confusing, I know. Basically, the Loire Brossay is as off the beaten path as one can imagine. If you're looking for a quiet place, this can be it.
On the other side of this triangle is Mountreil-Bellay with its serene beauty and very good wines: http://www.chateau-montreuil-bellay.fr/index.php?/montreuilbellay/EN . Among my personal favorite spots, the town is charming, much quieter than the popular toursit attraction on the Loire itself but still offering enough of history, nature, and typical French lifestyle to satisfy many. More about the beautiful chateau and the town can be found here: http://www.chateaux-france.com/montreuilbellay . Official website: http://www.chateau-de-montreuil-bellay.fr/ . There is a pretty good hotel in the town: http://www.hotelrelaisdubellay.fr/ and if you write to them in English, they tend to respond in the same language. :)
From there you can drive a bit more to the west and visit Le-Puy-Notre-Dame - official website: http://www.ville-lepuynotredame.fr/ . For such a small town, Le-Puy-Notre-Dame offers a lot - caves, mushroom growing, museums, retro cars show, and naturally - beautiful nature. Later the town has become quite popular among foreign home buyers, so if you're on the way to buy a vacation home, now is the time. :) A very nice blog of a bed and breakfast spot is this one: http://lagrandemaison.blogspot.com/ . Another sweet blog is this one and the couple live in the village plus own gites which you can rent: http://loiregites.wordpress.com/2007/08/28/a-morning-stroll-around-le-puy-notre-dame/ .
*Photo courtesy of www.anjou-tourisme.com
In the middle between Mountreil-Bellay and Le-Puy-Notre-Dame is located Vaudelnay which is another quiet spot and where you can find this very nice accommodation: http://en.likhom.com/bnb/La-Croix-Saint-Andre/vaudelnay . The official website is: http://www.communes-francaises.com/49/vaudelnay/ and even if you don't know French, you can click on the links to check out pretty good offers for bed and breakfast or rental cottages.
Enjoy! :)
You can drive either towards Doue-la-Fontaine (and I strongly recommend you rent a car if willing to explore the side roads) or towards Mountreil-Bellay. In both cases you will pass by Cave Grolleau where you can taste some really fine wines. Then, reaching Pace, you will have to choose either road.
If you decide to go to Doue-la-Fontaine, you can also explore the Rou-Marson area and dine at the cave restaurant http://www.cavesdemarson.com/cellars.html . Although I've heard people being unhappy with the service, I personally have never had any complaints. In the village there is also a nice small castle which is often overlooked. You will then reach Les Ulmes - a tiny village with interesting stories to tell. The official website is in French: http://www.lesulmes.mairie49.fr/ but this document will give you an idea: http://www.doneohostmaking.com/Miracle/LesUlmes.pdf . Never miss a place where miracles happened for yours may be on the way! :) On the other side of the road you will see the smallest "town" in the community - Montfort. There you can taste very good wines of Anjou and the rose trees are worth seeing. Typically French, the residents of Montfort and Cizay-la-Madeleine are arguing over the ownership of Chateau of Epinats built in the XVII century. The Madeleine's website is here: http://www.cizay.la.madeleine.mairie49.fr/ .
*Photo courtesy of www.farm-cottages-holidays.comFrom Doue you can drive straight to Mountreil-Bellay and thw only village on your way will be Brossay. While there is a winery which carries the name Chateau-de-Brossay it is not located in the Brossay village. :)) It is in Cléré-sur-Layon, further west. Therefore, don't look for the Chateau or the wines in this Brossay. There is a fine chateau in another Brossay, in Bretagne. Very confusing, I know. Basically, the Loire Brossay is as off the beaten path as one can imagine. If you're looking for a quiet place, this can be it.
On the other side of this triangle is Mountreil-Bellay with its serene beauty and very good wines: http://www.chateau-montreuil-bellay.fr/index.php?/montreuilbellay/EN . Among my personal favorite spots, the town is charming, much quieter than the popular toursit attraction on the Loire itself but still offering enough of history, nature, and typical French lifestyle to satisfy many. More about the beautiful chateau and the town can be found here: http://www.chateaux-france.com/montreuilbellay . Official website: http://www.chateau-de-montreuil-bellay.fr/ . There is a pretty good hotel in the town: http://www.hotelrelaisdubellay.fr/ and if you write to them in English, they tend to respond in the same language. :)
From there you can drive a bit more to the west and visit Le-Puy-Notre-Dame - official website: http://www.ville-lepuynotredame.fr/ . For such a small town, Le-Puy-Notre-Dame offers a lot - caves, mushroom growing, museums, retro cars show, and naturally - beautiful nature. Later the town has become quite popular among foreign home buyers, so if you're on the way to buy a vacation home, now is the time. :) A very nice blog of a bed and breakfast spot is this one: http://lagrandemaison.blogspot.com/ . Another sweet blog is this one and the couple live in the village plus own gites which you can rent: http://loiregites.wordpress.com/2007/08/28/a-morning-stroll-around-le-puy-notre-dame/ .
In the middle between Mountreil-Bellay and Le-Puy-Notre-Dame is located Vaudelnay which is another quiet spot and where you can find this very nice accommodation: http://en.likhom.com/bnb/La-Croix-Saint-Andre/vaudelnay . The official website is: http://www.communes-francaises.com/49/vaudelnay/ and even if you don't know French, you can click on the links to check out pretty good offers for bed and breakfast or rental cottages.
Enjoy! :)
Thursday, April 15, 2010
When I'm down...
When I'm down, when my writing sounds dull, when my features look bland, when my life struggles with the path I walk so irresponsibly, I read this:
She's turning her life into something sacred:
Each breath - a new birth;
Each moment - a new chance.
She bows her head,
gathers her dreams
from a pure deep stream
and stretches her arms towards the sky.
It is here where she must begin to tell her story.
(http://www.live-inspired.com/)
And I do. I begin another story. Sometimes my own, sometimes someone else's but always a loved one. I received an amazing letter from a fellow writer today - a woman with numerous bestselling books, often envied and considered having it all. She dreams just as much as I do and we met online through my ramblings about France and my future existence there. She was staying awake in the nights picturing the same vineyards I did dream of. And today she wrote to me:
"A person must be happy in every area of their life. It is not impossible, nor is it questionable. Who says you can't have everything? I want it. Do you? Then it is as true as anything else. The most difficult part is not to define your wishes but to define yourself as deserving them granted. I dare you - are you worth your goals achieved and dreams fulfilled? Are you afraid to challenge fate and pull her skirts if she is too slow or distracted? I dare you to climb the highest peak you have imagined this year and meet me here next spring. Let's see what you can do in one year."
I've been reading it again and again. Truly, who says "everything" is an impossible wish? Not me... But I admit I am not as brave as she is or as hopeful. My faith is often shaken to the point of destruction. This is the difference between those, like her, who raise again and again, and finally achieve triumph and those, like me, who start many things and dream many dreams but rely on the Wheel of Fortune to take them where they want to be. A bit sad. Even more pathetic. I love her words though. They make me believe.
She's turning her life into something sacred:
Each breath - a new birth;
Each moment - a new chance.
She bows her head,
gathers her dreams
from a pure deep stream
and stretches her arms towards the sky.
It is here where she must begin to tell her story.
(http://www.live-inspired.com/)
And I do. I begin another story. Sometimes my own, sometimes someone else's but always a loved one. I received an amazing letter from a fellow writer today - a woman with numerous bestselling books, often envied and considered having it all. She dreams just as much as I do and we met online through my ramblings about France and my future existence there. She was staying awake in the nights picturing the same vineyards I did dream of. And today she wrote to me:
"A person must be happy in every area of their life. It is not impossible, nor is it questionable. Who says you can't have everything? I want it. Do you? Then it is as true as anything else. The most difficult part is not to define your wishes but to define yourself as deserving them granted. I dare you - are you worth your goals achieved and dreams fulfilled? Are you afraid to challenge fate and pull her skirts if she is too slow or distracted? I dare you to climb the highest peak you have imagined this year and meet me here next spring. Let's see what you can do in one year."
I've been reading it again and again. Truly, who says "everything" is an impossible wish? Not me... But I admit I am not as brave as she is or as hopeful. My faith is often shaken to the point of destruction. This is the difference between those, like her, who raise again and again, and finally achieve triumph and those, like me, who start many things and dream many dreams but rely on the Wheel of Fortune to take them where they want to be. A bit sad. Even more pathetic. I love her words though. They make me believe.
A Photo Shoot
Had a professional photo shoot - felt like a Hollywood star. Found out I'm terrible in front of a camera. Will never try to become an actress (not that anyone would consider me at this age but wanted to make a statement!). LOL In fact, of all the pictures they made, only two can be shown to normal people without scaring the hell out of them. Oh, and the foundation they use is a miracle. No wonder everyone looks so flawless on the screen! Back to writing... but want to post more about vacations...
Tuesday, April 13, 2010
I'm reading
I just got this today after I had to wait for it more than two weeks. I am very happy refreshing my mind. I haven't read Hemingway since I was first year in the university and this was disturbingly long ago. Now, all that remains to be done is to write my book as well as they wrote theirs. Love Jane Austin and very sorry I'll have to change my book's Mr. Darcy... Only I see his wonderful nature...
Writing late doesn't help but hot air balloons do
Sometimes I make the big mistake to read my earlier posts and I'm terrified by all the mistakes there! How could I even think of a plant with "medical properties"? Amazing! I'm not editing anything though. I must have proof how bad writing late is, so I can finally stick to a better schedule and post when still conscious. :)))
One of my all time favorite books is "Winnie the Pooh Bear" and one of my most favorite objects in the book is the blue balloon. Have no idea why I'm so obsessed with balloons but my son has inherited it, therefore you should know it's genetic. :))) I hope it has something to do with imagination and dreams. Something like shooting for the moon to find yourself among the stars. Or my most beloved thought written once by Bernard Shaw:
"You see things; and you say, 'Why?' But I dream things that never were and I say, "Why not?"
Capital, isn't it? Daring, provoking, dreamy, passionate, challenging, and so balloonish!
*Photo courtesy of www.loire-getaways.com
And the whole balloon point, which I turned into long and probably boring, was actually made to tell you about one fun thing you can do in the Loire Valley with which I am finalizing this series for now - you will never forget the experience if you try the hot air balloon trips offered in the area! Believe me, it is breath taking. Here are some links:
http://www.france-balloons.com/balloon-ride,val-de-loire.php
http://www.parisnet.com/balloon_loire.html
http://www.loirevalleyballoon.com/English.phtml?PHPSESSID=12f0fe2139b009edc0481f05bffc8ff9
There are many more, of course but these are quite popular. It is pricey and the rates may differ by as much as 50 Euro, so you wanna check carefully. It is always best if you are a big company or if you are staying somewhere where other people will be willing to join you because a group rate is always best value. In any case, if you have the chance, don't think twice. The memories still keep me floating years after I did it. :)
On a second thought, if you like horses (I adore them!) you will never forgive yourself passing by the French National Riding School without seeing their remarkable performances. You can read the history (deserves respect!) and see this year's program on their website: http://www.cadrenoir.fr/en/index . The school is located in Saumur and is a main attraction.
And don't forget the wineries! Cheers! Send me a postcard or a photo. :)
One of my all time favorite books is "Winnie the Pooh Bear" and one of my most favorite objects in the book is the blue balloon. Have no idea why I'm so obsessed with balloons but my son has inherited it, therefore you should know it's genetic. :))) I hope it has something to do with imagination and dreams. Something like shooting for the moon to find yourself among the stars. Or my most beloved thought written once by Bernard Shaw:
"You see things; and you say, 'Why?' But I dream things that never were and I say, "Why not?"
Capital, isn't it? Daring, provoking, dreamy, passionate, challenging, and so balloonish!
And the whole balloon point, which I turned into long and probably boring, was actually made to tell you about one fun thing you can do in the Loire Valley with which I am finalizing this series for now - you will never forget the experience if you try the hot air balloon trips offered in the area! Believe me, it is breath taking. Here are some links:
http://www.france-balloons.com/balloon-ride,val-de-loire.php
http://www.parisnet.com/balloon_loire.html
http://www.loirevalleyballoon.com/English.phtml?PHPSESSID=12f0fe2139b009edc0481f05bffc8ff9
There are many more, of course but these are quite popular. It is pricey and the rates may differ by as much as 50 Euro, so you wanna check carefully. It is always best if you are a big company or if you are staying somewhere where other people will be willing to join you because a group rate is always best value. In any case, if you have the chance, don't think twice. The memories still keep me floating years after I did it. :)
On a second thought, if you like horses (I adore them!) you will never forgive yourself passing by the French National Riding School without seeing their remarkable performances. You can read the history (deserves respect!) and see this year's program on their website: http://www.cadrenoir.fr/en/index . The school is located in Saumur and is a main attraction.
And don't forget the wineries! Cheers! Send me a postcard or a photo. :)
Sunday, April 11, 2010
Tarot for places :)))
Yes, I'm doing this! :))) The day hasn't become better and I need something to remind me why I do what I do - because I love stories. They come in all forms to me. Some are told by remarkable writers, others by a deck of cards. Here is my experiment today. I draw a card for each of these places and then read it as I would if it was a one card reading. The deck is Robin Wood, all rights reserved of course, you can find the images on http://taroteca.multiply.com/ or click the links below.
The Loire Valley is Four of Cups http://taroteca.multiply.com/photos/album/77/Robin_Wood#photo=107.jpg - what I see first is the lush green. So typical, so emblematic for the place. The old trees covered with ivy, the amazingly green grass, it is spring as the tree is not blossoming yet but it's coming, even the clouds are Loire clouds - puffy and white, still allowing the sun to peek through. What bothers me a little is this man - nice looking guy, no doubt. Willful chin, blond hair, determined sight. White shirt, undone buttons - very sexy. The pants are a daring fashion statement, I love them - military mixed with fisherman style with light Gypsy elements. ;) However, he looks so... not paying attention to the lush green around. "Hey," I want to shout, "I'm giving away a kingdom to be at your place!" Which, of course, is the whole point - he has had so much wine of these fantastic vineyards in the area that he totally lost vision of the beauty surrounding him. And another glass is offered to him! So tempting, so perfect... "Don't!" I should rather shout, "you will miss the summer!" :)))) So, what place is the Loire Valley - dangerous! Too many too good things offered! Watch out! :))
Chinon is Eight of Pentacles
http://taroteca.multiply.com/photos/album/77/Robin_Wood##photo=59.jpg - one has to be blind to not see the river here, no? The card is spot on again - the Loire is there, the castle in the distance peeking from behind the wall of the boy's chamber, the lush green banks of the river are screaming "summer" and the so-well-known to me fluffy clouds are chasing each other. It is a warm day, the boy has opened the window and the early morning sun has not reached the shutter yet. It smells like fresh cut grass, warm croissants, cafe-au-lait, and wood. Because the boy is a creator. Someone who loves what he is doing. Then what place is Chinon - an inspirational place where all things are possible. :) A place to pursue a dream or two. May be the boy is learning how to grow the vines and let the wine rest in the caves around the town or he may be writing another Chinon Parchment - whatever it is, he is content - the simple secret of being happy is hidden in Chinon, folks! :)))
Enough for today, I'm exhausted. If you wish to see your dream place as a Tarot card, let me know. :)))
The Loire Valley is Four of Cups http://taroteca.multiply.com/photos/album/77/Robin_Wood#photo=107.jpg - what I see first is the lush green. So typical, so emblematic for the place. The old trees covered with ivy, the amazingly green grass, it is spring as the tree is not blossoming yet but it's coming, even the clouds are Loire clouds - puffy and white, still allowing the sun to peek through. What bothers me a little is this man - nice looking guy, no doubt. Willful chin, blond hair, determined sight. White shirt, undone buttons - very sexy. The pants are a daring fashion statement, I love them - military mixed with fisherman style with light Gypsy elements. ;) However, he looks so... not paying attention to the lush green around. "Hey," I want to shout, "I'm giving away a kingdom to be at your place!" Which, of course, is the whole point - he has had so much wine of these fantastic vineyards in the area that he totally lost vision of the beauty surrounding him. And another glass is offered to him! So tempting, so perfect... "Don't!" I should rather shout, "you will miss the summer!" :)))) So, what place is the Loire Valley - dangerous! Too many too good things offered! Watch out! :))
Chinon is Eight of Pentacles
http://taroteca.multiply.com/photos/album/77/Robin_Wood##photo=59.jpg - one has to be blind to not see the river here, no? The card is spot on again - the Loire is there, the castle in the distance peeking from behind the wall of the boy's chamber, the lush green banks of the river are screaming "summer" and the so-well-known to me fluffy clouds are chasing each other. It is a warm day, the boy has opened the window and the early morning sun has not reached the shutter yet. It smells like fresh cut grass, warm croissants, cafe-au-lait, and wood. Because the boy is a creator. Someone who loves what he is doing. Then what place is Chinon - an inspirational place where all things are possible. :) A place to pursue a dream or two. May be the boy is learning how to grow the vines and let the wine rest in the caves around the town or he may be writing another Chinon Parchment - whatever it is, he is content - the simple secret of being happy is hidden in Chinon, folks! :)))
Enough for today, I'm exhausted. If you wish to see your dream place as a Tarot card, let me know. :)))
My imaginary travelling this summer
I'm having a bad day. One of those days when I wonder why I write, why I can not settle down with a more "regular" job, why I am willing to receive scores of rejections, and last but not least - why my dreams don't lead me to a well paid profession which would allow me a dreamy vacation in the Loire Valley. To cheer myself up, I travel in my imagination. :))
*Photo courtesy of www.dailymail.co.uk
One website I absolutely love is http://www.a-castle-for-rent.com/ - mind blowing beauty! If one can stay in a true castle and play the master/mistress even if only for a week or two, why bother with hotels? I wouldn't. I only wonder if purchasing different dining sets for the outdoors has ever been considered. Somehow these plastic ones do not correspond with the rest.
www.holiday-rentals.co.uk/p413628 - this is the house I had chosen for this year's summer vacation before it became clear I wasn't going there. I love the grounds and if you have small children, they have playground too. The location is golden and the house is super comfortable. I find the price reasonable as well.
For those of you who, just like me, can not separate culinary pleasure from travelling, here are a few must-eats from the Loire Valley:
- Potted meat - it is made from pork baked in fat. It may sound terrible but it's absolutely delicious! There are different kinds in the different subregions - Le Mans' is thin and not flavored; Tours' has less fat, rougher texture and forms little cubes. The origins of the potted meat are not completely researched but in the 16th century Rabelais used the term to describe pork cubes;
- Geline de Touraine - the old unique breed of chicken also known as Dame Noire du Lochois - prepared in any possible way, it will make you rethink the meaning of "chicken";
- Farci from Poitou - it was originally produced in the Civray area between Poitiers and Confolens but can be found in Charente as well. It is usually sold in the butcher's. The Farci is a mix of vegetables, herbs, bacon, egges and flour, cooked in cabbage leaves. It is equally yummy either as a starter or as a main dish. The Farci from Poitou about two centuries old;
- Lamb's lettuce - super fine;
- Green lentils with haddock - served in every better restaurant with traditional cuisine;
- Goat cheese - the Loire Valley produces more than fifteen kinds of goat cheese. Some of the best known are Chabichou du Poitou (Chabis) - creamy when young and crumbly as ageing; Bougon - with a very specific soft skin; Sainte-Maure de Touraine - existed as far back as the 10th century and must be eaten from the farthest end, no clue why but I always follow the local customs; Crottin de Chavignol - sold in a perforated container, well complemented by herbs, soft when young, dryer as ageing, and hard and crumbly when old;
- Butter from Poitou-Charentes - never miss this at breakfast! Spread on a freshly baked croissant, this special, cream-colored, hazelnut scented butter is a delicatessen. It is produced under strict control any artificial coloring, preservatives or deacidifying substances are forbidden;
- Angelica from Niort - a plant with a fluted stem which is assigned many medicinal properties (digestive, tonic and antispasmodic). It is sold in the patisserie in the form of sugared green sticks but is also used for jam, liquors and in cooking to flavor omelets, fish, etc.
- Poitou broyé - simple and very crumbly cake;
- Cornuelles - very special small cakes with three horns and a hole in the middle, made from a pastry by only one confectioner (recipe remains secret) - the Chizé cornuelle or the cornuelle made in pastry shell, or the cornuelle made in donut pastry, and the cornuelle made in sweetened shortcrust pastry, all are filled with confectioner's cream or chantilly cream and vanilla-, lemon- or orange flower-flavored - a must!
- Saint-Michel galettes - very simple but healthy (as much as possible for such food) and crazy popular bisquits, made od wheat and malt flours, sugar, salt, butter, eggs, yeast, glucose syrup, lactose and natural flavors;
- Macaroons from Lusignan, Montmorillon, Lussac and Cormery - my sin - insanely delicious, made of almonds, little round cakes, macaroons don't contain any flour but enough sugar to make me feel guilty for the rest of the year; there are also big ones (God forbid!) called macaronés and you can even visit the Macaroons Museum in Montmorillon - http://www.museedumacaron.com/
- Cheese crab - a specialty cake from the Poitou-Charentes area made with goat cheese and vanilla oil;
- Tarte Tatin - the well known apple tart with caramel topping which is baked upside-down - the pastry put on top of the apples.
A very friendly and informative website is http://short-breaks.by-loire-valley.com/art-de-vivre.htm - it will offer you more about food and wine in the Loire Valley plus will give you some ideas of where to stay and what to do. Another one is http://www.epiculinary.com/ - especially for good life lovers with tendency to eat and drink often. ;) This is a blog I personally always check when thinking of a Loire Valley vacation: http://lagrandemaison.blogspot.com/2009/04/selection-of-loire-restaurants-from.html Enjoy!
One website I absolutely love is http://www.a-castle-for-rent.com/ - mind blowing beauty! If one can stay in a true castle and play the master/mistress even if only for a week or two, why bother with hotels? I wouldn't. I only wonder if purchasing different dining sets for the outdoors has ever been considered. Somehow these plastic ones do not correspond with the rest.
www.holiday-rentals.co.uk/p413628 - this is the house I had chosen for this year's summer vacation before it became clear I wasn't going there. I love the grounds and if you have small children, they have playground too. The location is golden and the house is super comfortable. I find the price reasonable as well.
For those of you who, just like me, can not separate culinary pleasure from travelling, here are a few must-eats from the Loire Valley:
- Potted meat - it is made from pork baked in fat. It may sound terrible but it's absolutely delicious! There are different kinds in the different subregions - Le Mans' is thin and not flavored; Tours' has less fat, rougher texture and forms little cubes. The origins of the potted meat are not completely researched but in the 16th century Rabelais used the term to describe pork cubes;
- Geline de Touraine - the old unique breed of chicken also known as Dame Noire du Lochois - prepared in any possible way, it will make you rethink the meaning of "chicken";
- Farci from Poitou - it was originally produced in the Civray area between Poitiers and Confolens but can be found in Charente as well. It is usually sold in the butcher's. The Farci is a mix of vegetables, herbs, bacon, egges and flour, cooked in cabbage leaves. It is equally yummy either as a starter or as a main dish. The Farci from Poitou about two centuries old;
- Lamb's lettuce - super fine;
- Green lentils with haddock - served in every better restaurant with traditional cuisine;
- Goat cheese - the Loire Valley produces more than fifteen kinds of goat cheese. Some of the best known are Chabichou du Poitou (Chabis) - creamy when young and crumbly as ageing; Bougon - with a very specific soft skin; Sainte-Maure de Touraine - existed as far back as the 10th century and must be eaten from the farthest end, no clue why but I always follow the local customs; Crottin de Chavignol - sold in a perforated container, well complemented by herbs, soft when young, dryer as ageing, and hard and crumbly when old;
- Butter from Poitou-Charentes - never miss this at breakfast! Spread on a freshly baked croissant, this special, cream-colored, hazelnut scented butter is a delicatessen. It is produced under strict control any artificial coloring, preservatives or deacidifying substances are forbidden;
- Angelica from Niort - a plant with a fluted stem which is assigned many medicinal properties (digestive, tonic and antispasmodic). It is sold in the patisserie in the form of sugared green sticks but is also used for jam, liquors and in cooking to flavor omelets, fish, etc.
- Poitou broyé - simple and very crumbly cake;
- Cornuelles - very special small cakes with three horns and a hole in the middle, made from a pastry by only one confectioner (recipe remains secret) - the Chizé cornuelle or the cornuelle made in pastry shell, or the cornuelle made in donut pastry, and the cornuelle made in sweetened shortcrust pastry, all are filled with confectioner's cream or chantilly cream and vanilla-, lemon- or orange flower-flavored - a must!
- Saint-Michel galettes - very simple but healthy (as much as possible for such food) and crazy popular bisquits, made od wheat and malt flours, sugar, salt, butter, eggs, yeast, glucose syrup, lactose and natural flavors;
- Macaroons from Lusignan, Montmorillon, Lussac and Cormery - my sin - insanely delicious, made of almonds, little round cakes, macaroons don't contain any flour but enough sugar to make me feel guilty for the rest of the year; there are also big ones (God forbid!) called macaronés and you can even visit the Macaroons Museum in Montmorillon - http://www.museedumacaron.com/
- Cheese crab - a specialty cake from the Poitou-Charentes area made with goat cheese and vanilla oil;
- Tarte Tatin - the well known apple tart with caramel topping which is baked upside-down - the pastry put on top of the apples.
A very friendly and informative website is http://short-breaks.by-loire-valley.com/art-de-vivre.htm - it will offer you more about food and wine in the Loire Valley plus will give you some ideas of where to stay and what to do. Another one is http://www.epiculinary.com/ - especially for good life lovers with tendency to eat and drink often. ;) This is a blog I personally always check when thinking of a Loire Valley vacation: http://lagrandemaison.blogspot.com/2009/04/selection-of-loire-restaurants-from.html Enjoy!
Friday, April 9, 2010
Mixing things?
It's well past 10 p.m., I'm deadly tired, done with the editing for today, my toddler is sleeping surprisingly well and... instead of going to bed, I just got this scary idea while I was doing some Tarot readings - what if I draw a card for a place? Like all those place horoscopes - different countries have different signs, cities too, each spot on the planet, I guess, has its own sign. I am determined to practice but not before I finish the Loire Valley series. Don't want to ruin it all if I draw The Hanged Man, for example. :))
More Loire Valley and practical things
I'm finishing the romantic castles part with two more spots.
*Photo courtesy of www.lepissier.org
Chateau de Villandry located in Villandry, Indre-et-Loire. The official website is http://www.chateauvillandry.com/ . It offers a lot of info and, as you can see, 2010 promises to be an abundant in events year, so pack the suitcases and check below for accommodation ideas!
The castle is built on lands where an ancient fortress stood once. In the original 14th-century keep King Philip II of France met Richard I of England (“the Lionhearted”) to discuss peace. The chateau remained in Le Breton family for about two centuries before being acquired by Marquis de Castellane. During the French Revolution it was confiscated and it's a small wonder that Emperor Napoleon acquired it for his brother Joseph Bonaparte - the place is a stunner.
In 1906 Chateau de Vilandry was acquired by Dr. Joachim Carvallo who invested tons of time, money and devotion to repair the place and to create the famous gardens which are widely consideredthe most beautiful anywhere to be seen. These Renaissance gardens include a water garden, ornamental flower gardens, and vegetable gardens. They are designed in formal patterns and create pictures. Like all the castles in the Loire Valley, it is a World Heritage Site. Château de Villandry is still owned by the Carvallo family (a wonder itself!) and is open to the public being one of the most visited castles in France.
*Photo courtesy of www.viamichelin.co.uk
Last but not least, my preferred location for running among poppies and field flowers - Chateau du Rivau. Usually left aside from the most popular for their beauty castles, the place was best known for the visit of Joan de Arc who once went there to get horses for herself and her companions. The area was famous with the war horses raised there. Later same horses were used by the French Kings and the stables became officially "royal". :)
Today, after many years of careful restoration, the unique assemble of chateau, stables, and service buildings is a breathtaking sight and not to be missed! Its most remarkable feature are the "fairytale gardens of Chateau du Rivau". You can see them all on the official website: http://www.chateaudurivau.com/english/home.html . The website is super friendly, there are tons of info and events offered, and the castle still stays on top of my list each time I visit the Loire Valley. The gastronomical and wine tasting pleasures are a must as well! Also, pay attention to the statues and scuptures scattered around the gardens, some of them are true pieces of genius and all are representing modern French art.
More on the practical side, I decided to post here some of my top accommodation spots, assuming you would choose to stay around Saumur. If you prefer another location, let me know and I'll give other ideas. Now, wherever I travel, I usually prefer to rent a house (a gite in French) and either self-cater or order only breakfast from the hosts. This way I can shop the local markets which is a huge part of my pleasure in France, buy fresh produce and (rarely) cook. Most often I would buy vegetables, fruits, cheese, olives, tapenade, sausages and baked goods and open a bottle of good wine. No cooking required and the abundance is guaranteed. For more than fifteen years tasting, I still doubt I have tried all cheese or sausages types! Here are my self-catered and gite choices for the area:
http://lamandieranjou.monsite.orange.fr/ - French speaking;
http://www.maisondemilly.com/ - English speaking, remarkable place;
http://chezpaquerette.free.fr/ - Madame speaks English although it doesn't show on the website ;)
http://www.lesavigne.com/ - impressive and offers breakfast as well;
http://pagesperso-orange.fr/les.roches/ - English version available, with breakfast too;
http://www.iledusaule.com/ - English version available, authentique and nice;
http://labouere.ifrance.com/ - English spoken, I truly love the fields and the garden of this place!;
http://www.fermeduboismadame.com/ - English spoken but not on the website LOL, horses, carriages!;
http://www.lagrangesaumur.eu/presentation.php - very sweet little place, English-Italian+German spoken;
http://www.lamaisonjoulin.com/ - English version available, very nice and authentique place;
http://lelamartine.drgconseil.com/ - English spoken, impressive house;
http://www.lepatiosaumur.fr/ - English version available, this is an adorable old inn which is worth every minute you can spend there!;
http://membres.multimania.fr/mruault/ - English version available, small but cute.
I'm leaving you with these now to gat back to writing. I am still hopeful to sell a book for a couple of millions and move to the Loire Valley forever! LOL In the next post I'll add more places to stay and things to do. Hope you enjoy the places!
Chateau de Villandry located in Villandry, Indre-et-Loire. The official website is http://www.chateauvillandry.com/ . It offers a lot of info and, as you can see, 2010 promises to be an abundant in events year, so pack the suitcases and check below for accommodation ideas!
The castle is built on lands where an ancient fortress stood once. In the original 14th-century keep King Philip II of France met Richard I of England (“the Lionhearted”) to discuss peace. The chateau remained in Le Breton family for about two centuries before being acquired by Marquis de Castellane. During the French Revolution it was confiscated and it's a small wonder that Emperor Napoleon acquired it for his brother Joseph Bonaparte - the place is a stunner.
In 1906 Chateau de Vilandry was acquired by Dr. Joachim Carvallo who invested tons of time, money and devotion to repair the place and to create the famous gardens which are widely consideredthe most beautiful anywhere to be seen. These Renaissance gardens include a water garden, ornamental flower gardens, and vegetable gardens. They are designed in formal patterns and create pictures. Like all the castles in the Loire Valley, it is a World Heritage Site. Château de Villandry is still owned by the Carvallo family (a wonder itself!) and is open to the public being one of the most visited castles in France.
Last but not least, my preferred location for running among poppies and field flowers - Chateau du Rivau. Usually left aside from the most popular for their beauty castles, the place was best known for the visit of Joan de Arc who once went there to get horses for herself and her companions. The area was famous with the war horses raised there. Later same horses were used by the French Kings and the stables became officially "royal". :)
Today, after many years of careful restoration, the unique assemble of chateau, stables, and service buildings is a breathtaking sight and not to be missed! Its most remarkable feature are the "fairytale gardens of Chateau du Rivau". You can see them all on the official website: http://www.chateaudurivau.com/english/home.html . The website is super friendly, there are tons of info and events offered, and the castle still stays on top of my list each time I visit the Loire Valley. The gastronomical and wine tasting pleasures are a must as well! Also, pay attention to the statues and scuptures scattered around the gardens, some of them are true pieces of genius and all are representing modern French art.
More on the practical side, I decided to post here some of my top accommodation spots, assuming you would choose to stay around Saumur. If you prefer another location, let me know and I'll give other ideas. Now, wherever I travel, I usually prefer to rent a house (a gite in French) and either self-cater or order only breakfast from the hosts. This way I can shop the local markets which is a huge part of my pleasure in France, buy fresh produce and (rarely) cook. Most often I would buy vegetables, fruits, cheese, olives, tapenade, sausages and baked goods and open a bottle of good wine. No cooking required and the abundance is guaranteed. For more than fifteen years tasting, I still doubt I have tried all cheese or sausages types! Here are my self-catered and gite choices for the area:
http://lamandieranjou.monsite.orange.fr/ - French speaking;
http://www.maisondemilly.com/ - English speaking, remarkable place;
http://chezpaquerette.free.fr/ - Madame speaks English although it doesn't show on the website ;)
http://www.lesavigne.com/ - impressive and offers breakfast as well;
http://pagesperso-orange.fr/les.roches/ - English version available, with breakfast too;
http://www.iledusaule.com/ - English version available, authentique and nice;
http://labouere.ifrance.com/ - English spoken, I truly love the fields and the garden of this place!;
http://www.fermeduboismadame.com/ - English spoken but not on the website LOL, horses, carriages!;
http://www.lagrangesaumur.eu/presentation.php - very sweet little place, English-Italian+German spoken;
http://www.lamaisonjoulin.com/ - English version available, very nice and authentique place;
http://lelamartine.drgconseil.com/ - English spoken, impressive house;
http://www.lepatiosaumur.fr/ - English version available, this is an adorable old inn which is worth every minute you can spend there!;
http://membres.multimania.fr/mruault/ - English version available, small but cute.
I'm leaving you with these now to gat back to writing. I am still hopeful to sell a book for a couple of millions and move to the Loire Valley forever! LOL In the next post I'll add more places to stay and things to do. Hope you enjoy the places!
Wednesday, April 7, 2010
I'm reading
I wanted to recommend this book which I've been reading the past few days. After all the books I've read about Provence, I thought there was nothing to attract me anymore. This one definitely changed my mind! As someone who hopes to become a professional writer, I truly admire Mr. Greenside for the funny, witty, warm and yet - objective writing! Check it out, it's worth every minute! I hope he will write a couple more as I'm dying to read about this small village in Brittany again. :))
More Loire Valley castles for lovers
I read today on someone's blog it took them ten minutes to write a post. I was struck and depressed. How do people do that? It takes me more than an hour to arrange all the info, pictures and links! I am daughter of the turtles apparently. Nevertheless, I enjoy putting together the pieces and continue today with my favorite castles in the beautiful valley of the river Loire in France. I wish you can get there this summer and send me photos later. :)
Here is a real treat for all of us fairy tale lovers - the chateau where the Sleeping beuty was born by her creator Charles Perrault. A stunning piece of architecture, Chateau d'Usse has been furnished and arranged to reflect the Sleeping beauty fairy tale. In all the rooms you will find replicas and wax figures of characters we all know - queen and king, princess and prince, witch and fairies. The governess is there, the kitchen is still full of food, the pots are on the fire oven... Only all are fast asleep for one hundred years.
When I first visited the place I was most surprised that such a remarkable building had such an unfortunate story. The castle has been demolished and rebuilt a number of times and has exchanged many owners. Initially built as a stronghold at the edge of the Chinon forest and fortified in the eleventh century by the Norman seigneur of Usse, Gueldin de Saumur, later it passed to the Comte de Blois, who rebuilt it in stone. In the fifteenth century the ruined castle of Usse was purchased by Jean V de Bueil, a captain-general of Charles VII who began rebuilding it in the 1460s. His son Antoine de Bueil, who married Jeanne de Valois, daughter of Charles VII (and of course very rich girl!), was heavily in debt and in 1485 sold the château to Jacques d’Espinay, son of a chamberlain to the Duke of Brittany and himself chamberlain to the king. The new owner built the chapel which was completed by his son Charles in 1538.
In the seventeenth century Louis I de Valentinay demolished the north range of buildings to open the spectacular view over the parterre terrace. His son-in-law - a military engineer Vauban, liked and visited Usse often. However, the castle was passed to a new owner again - Rohan. Then in 1807 Usse was purchased by the duc de Duras.
An interesting part of the chateau history is related to the secret meetings held in 1813 by a group of Bourbon loyalists who met there to discuss the possibilities of a Bourbon Restoration. Among them were men like Trémouille, duc de Fitzjames, the prince de Polignac, Ferrand, Montmorency and the duc de Rochefoucault - names we now know from the books and which carry the romantic patina of the time. Later François de Chateaubriand worked on his Mémoires d'Outre-Tombe as the guest of duchesse Claire de Duras in the castle.
Chateau d'Usse was the inspiration for many of Walt Disney's castles too (together with others of course) ans is a favorite spot for wedding and engagement photos. This is the official website: http://www.chateaudusse.fr/ which is in French but you can always use online translator like Google's. Or you may find a button for English which I may have missed. :) Alternatively, you may check for tips and hints here: http://www.france-for-visitors.com/loire/chateau-d-usse.html and here: http://www.lvo.com/GB/MAG/CHATEAUX/USSE.HTML . One thing I strongly disagree with many online reviews is the chateau is cheesy. It is not. It is romantic and beautiful, and the gardens are fantastic. Even only the view from the courtyard is sufficiently breathtaking. So, if you are in love with someone else, yourself, or the life in general - go celebrate it there! :)
* Photo courtesy of www.francethisway.com
Chateau de Valencay is an impressive piece of architecture with beautiful gardens. Its official webiste is http://www.chateau-valencay.fr/ - in French, of course! ;) One thing I like about French is they rarely care for those of us who have forgotten their language skills at home. Learning in motion, that is. The castle was a residence of the d'Estampes and Talleyrand-Périgord families in the commune of Valencay.
The chateau sits on the edge of a plateau overlooking the little Nahon river. It was built by the d'Estampes family over a period of 200 years. Construction started in 1540 in place of the demolished 12th-century castle and was not completed until the 18th century when the south tower was added.
A rapid succession of owners followed including the notorious Scottish banker John Law. In 1803 Napoleon ordered his foreign minister Charles Maurice de Talleyrand to acquire the property so the emperor could invite and impress foreign dignitaries there - such is the power of Valencay! Surely, Ferdinand VII of Spain, who spent six pleasant years in Napoleonic captivity at Valencay, must have been delighted. :)
When the Talleyrands became owners and occupied the castle, the golden age for the chateau started. Twenty three communes were reportedly administrated by the ruling prince. When Talleyrand died in 1838, he was buried in a small mortuary chapel in the park. His descendants retained the ownership until 1952 when the male line ended. The estate was sold to an association of historic chateaux in 1979.
The chateau was spared during the German occupation thanks to the German roots of its owners. At the time it was the safe place for treasures from the Louvre (the Winged Victory of Samothrace and the Venus de Milo) to be kept. Among its most impressive features are the formal gardens which cover about forty hectares, not counting the area of Talleyrand's vineyards. Llamas, peacocks, and other exotic animals inhabit the park.
Those of you who remember their French or don't mind using an online translation service may want to check this website as well: http://www.visite-au-chateau.com/ . It provides great info about many castles and tourist sites. I will write more about the remaining castles in my next post and will add some practical and not so practical info about the Loire Valley as well. :)
Here is a real treat for all of us fairy tale lovers - the chateau where the Sleeping beuty was born by her creator Charles Perrault. A stunning piece of architecture, Chateau d'Usse has been furnished and arranged to reflect the Sleeping beauty fairy tale. In all the rooms you will find replicas and wax figures of characters we all know - queen and king, princess and prince, witch and fairies. The governess is there, the kitchen is still full of food, the pots are on the fire oven... Only all are fast asleep for one hundred years.
When I first visited the place I was most surprised that such a remarkable building had such an unfortunate story. The castle has been demolished and rebuilt a number of times and has exchanged many owners. Initially built as a stronghold at the edge of the Chinon forest and fortified in the eleventh century by the Norman seigneur of Usse, Gueldin de Saumur, later it passed to the Comte de Blois, who rebuilt it in stone. In the fifteenth century the ruined castle of Usse was purchased by Jean V de Bueil, a captain-general of Charles VII who began rebuilding it in the 1460s. His son Antoine de Bueil, who married Jeanne de Valois, daughter of Charles VII (and of course very rich girl!), was heavily in debt and in 1485 sold the château to Jacques d’Espinay, son of a chamberlain to the Duke of Brittany and himself chamberlain to the king. The new owner built the chapel which was completed by his son Charles in 1538.
In the seventeenth century Louis I de Valentinay demolished the north range of buildings to open the spectacular view over the parterre terrace. His son-in-law - a military engineer Vauban, liked and visited Usse often. However, the castle was passed to a new owner again - Rohan. Then in 1807 Usse was purchased by the duc de Duras.
An interesting part of the chateau history is related to the secret meetings held in 1813 by a group of Bourbon loyalists who met there to discuss the possibilities of a Bourbon Restoration. Among them were men like Trémouille, duc de Fitzjames, the prince de Polignac, Ferrand, Montmorency and the duc de Rochefoucault - names we now know from the books and which carry the romantic patina of the time. Later François de Chateaubriand worked on his Mémoires d'Outre-Tombe as the guest of duchesse Claire de Duras in the castle.
Chateau d'Usse was the inspiration for many of Walt Disney's castles too (together with others of course) ans is a favorite spot for wedding and engagement photos. This is the official website: http://www.chateaudusse.fr/ which is in French but you can always use online translator like Google's. Or you may find a button for English which I may have missed. :) Alternatively, you may check for tips and hints here: http://www.france-for-visitors.com/loire/chateau-d-usse.html and here: http://www.lvo.com/GB/MAG/CHATEAUX/USSE.HTML . One thing I strongly disagree with many online reviews is the chateau is cheesy. It is not. It is romantic and beautiful, and the gardens are fantastic. Even only the view from the courtyard is sufficiently breathtaking. So, if you are in love with someone else, yourself, or the life in general - go celebrate it there! :)
* Photo courtesy of www.francethisway.com
The chateau sits on the edge of a plateau overlooking the little Nahon river. It was built by the d'Estampes family over a period of 200 years. Construction started in 1540 in place of the demolished 12th-century castle and was not completed until the 18th century when the south tower was added.
A rapid succession of owners followed including the notorious Scottish banker John Law. In 1803 Napoleon ordered his foreign minister Charles Maurice de Talleyrand to acquire the property so the emperor could invite and impress foreign dignitaries there - such is the power of Valencay! Surely, Ferdinand VII of Spain, who spent six pleasant years in Napoleonic captivity at Valencay, must have been delighted. :)
When the Talleyrands became owners and occupied the castle, the golden age for the chateau started. Twenty three communes were reportedly administrated by the ruling prince. When Talleyrand died in 1838, he was buried in a small mortuary chapel in the park. His descendants retained the ownership until 1952 when the male line ended. The estate was sold to an association of historic chateaux in 1979.
The chateau was spared during the German occupation thanks to the German roots of its owners. At the time it was the safe place for treasures from the Louvre (the Winged Victory of Samothrace and the Venus de Milo) to be kept. Among its most impressive features are the formal gardens which cover about forty hectares, not counting the area of Talleyrand's vineyards. Llamas, peacocks, and other exotic animals inhabit the park.
Those of you who remember their French or don't mind using an online translation service may want to check this website as well: http://www.visite-au-chateau.com/ . It provides great info about many castles and tourist sites. I will write more about the remaining castles in my next post and will add some practical and not so practical info about the Loire Valley as well. :)
Tuesday, April 6, 2010
Loire Valley castles for lovers
* Photo courtesy of www.francethisway.comA while ago I wrote a short story about a woman whose life had turned into waiting. "Only sometimes," she was saying, "a long forgotten sound of steps under the white stone arches would reflect my youth in the waters of the river. The steps would be imaginary. The river would keep flowing undisturbed."
When I wrote it I was thinking of Chateau Chenonceau - one of the few I know which were inhabited, influenced, created, reborn, loved and left by women mostly. The history of this lovely place is a fairy tale itself but my favorite part is related to Diane de Poitiers - the mistress of Henry II who, regardless his later marriage to Catherine de Medici, remained in love with his first lover for his entire life. A rear thing among aristocrats at the time! Diane adored Chenonceau. When I visited the castle, I thought she had never left for real. Her perfume, her steps, her sighs in the lonely evenings without her lover - it was all there. If you have the chance - don't miss the opportunity to also walk the gardens in the evening when the specially chosen music will take you back through time and lives to an era of romance, intrigues, chevaliers and fallen queens. There is something magical about the mist surrounding the columns and the path on the east side. I could see the king riding this path and Diane gazing from the gallery above the water. It was an unique experience I never forgot. This is the official website of Chateau Chenonceau, an invaluable source of information and beautiful photos: http://www.chenonceau.com/
* Photo courtesy of www.travel-france-vacation.com
Another impressive chateau for me was the floating on the river Indre Chateau Azay-le-Rideau. It doesn't have such a romantic history and in fact was owned by the Mayor of Tours, Gilles Berthelot, who was also the treasurer for Francois I. The king later withdrew his favourable attitude towards the mayor and the castle was given to an army man. Still, Azay-le-Rideau has its own romantic air and big part of it is the fantastic location. The castle was built on the ruins of an older chateaux burned during the Hundred Years War. It is one of the earliest French Renaissance chateaux. Built on an island, its foundations rise straight out of the water. And there was a woman whose taste and passion were involved in the building of this bijou as well - the mayor's wife, Philippe Lesbahy, directed the course of the works. It was her who wanted the central internal staircase (escalier d'honneur) that is Azay's most beautiful feature, inspired by the staircase at Châteaudun. The Wikipedia has a nice article about the chateau here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Azay-le-Rideau .
* Photo courtesy of www.globetourguide.com
Château de Chambord is another of the Renaissance castles in the valley and the most grandeur too. It was constructed by Francois I who wanted to be near his mistress - the Comtesse de Thoury, Claude Rohan, wife of an aristocrat whose château de Muides was adjacent. It is said the carved decor of the chateau was to resemble the gentle arms of the Comtesse de Thoury.
Despite its size and mighty presence, the castle was built to serve as a hunting lodge (besides the love nest role) and was destined to loneliness. The king maintained his royal residences at Château de Blois and Château d'Amboise. There has been an ongoing argument about the original designer and architect of this remarkable building but only in the beginning of the 20th century the name of Leonardo da Vinci was associated with Château de Chambord.
One of my favourite features of Chambord - it was never intended to serve as a defense point and nothing in its design was build with the thought of war. If the king was sufficiently in love at the time or da Vinci was indeed the genius behind the delicate yet enormous structure, I don't know. What I do know is this castle has atmosphere and gentle side which are a bit surprising when one first sets one's eyes on the towers - more appropriate for a downtown sight today than for a serene river scene five centuries ago.
Sadly, the destiny of the castle was fulfilled and it was mostly empty during all these years of existence. Louis XIII gave Chambord to his brother, Gaston d'Orleans, who saved it from ruin and did a lot of restoration work; then Louis XIV restored and furnished the royal apartments and added a 1,200-horse stable, enabling him to use the castle for hunting and entertainment for a few weeks each year. Still, Louis XIV abandoned the castle too. Later Stanislas I and Maurice de Saxe inhabited the castle for a while before it feel into silence again. New owners came with more or less desire to save the great building, law suits were initiated, heirs popped up, but only after the end of the World War II Chambord received the care it deserves and today attracts thousands of people each year with its glorious yet delicate beauty. The official website of the castle is http://www.chambord.org/Chambord-en-idm-1-n-Accueil.html - in English.
In the next post, I'll tell you more of my most romantic chateaux in the Loire Valley. For now, enjoy one of the best tours organized in the area: http://www.traveloffthebeatenpath.com/loirevalleyitinerary.html
Thursday, April 1, 2010
Dreamy travel destination for 2010
Beautiful, isn't it? This is the fairy castle in Saumur, in the Loire Valley in France. The valley is our dreamy travel destination for 2010.
The photo is courtesy of a wonderful website you may want to check if you wish to learn more about the castles not only in this area but in France in general: http://www.castles.francethisway.com/ The site also offers invaluable info on top destinations, hidden paths, hotels and accommodation, car rentals, sight-seeing, and so on.
For more info on the area you can read this website: http://www.france-for-visitors.com/loire/saumur/index.html - on the left you will see other cities in the region worth visiting and separate categories related to the town you are currently exploring. Our choice is related to book and wine love, so we'd like to visit Blois (who doesn't love the Three Musketeers?) - http://www.france-for-visitors.com/loire/blois/index.html; Angers - home of the Anjou family in the past - http://www.france-for-visitors.com/loire/angers/index.html; Beaugency - another little and beautiful town participating in Dumas' stories - http://www.france-for-visitors.com/loire/beaugency.html; definitely hinon for wine lovers like us - http://www.france-for-visitors.com/loire/chinon/index.html .
The whole region is well known for its wines. Check out this fantastic website for more info on the regional wines, the unique technology of making them and places to visit if you'd like some wine tasting: http://www.terroir-france.com/region/loire_saumur.htm . Each year the town of Saumur holds a Wine Market the first week of September. If you plan to go at this time, check the website: http://www.marchedesvinsdesaumur.com/initiation_degustation_marche_des_vins_de_saumur2.php .
We'd like to feature in thsi post a favorite spot of ours - La Bellevue: http://www.domainedelabellevue.com/ . Sarah-Jane and Gerald will make your stay really special and no, they are not paying us. :)) In fact, they don't know we are blogging about them here. The place offers many options for accommodation, either self-catering (we do that usually) or catered, bed & breakfast, ect. It's located near Montreuil-Bellay - very close to Saumur and an excellent location for exploring the region. Check it out. They also have a very helpful blog where you can follow the local calendar of events: http://www.domainedelabellevue.blogspot.com/.
Finally, we want to add a couple of photos and make you as dreamy as we are to be back, to walk these lush fields once again, to dive into the river, to feel the fragrant air... The addresses of the websites owning the photos are also recommended by us for general information about the region.
Saumur from the http://www.a-taste-of-france.com/
Beautiful Blois from http://frysingerreunion.org/france
Angers - a vision on the river from http://www.lpiabroad.com/
Chinon - almost surrealistic from http://www.loirevalleygite.com/We hope to see you there this summer!
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