Here is a real treat for all of us fairy tale lovers - the chateau where the Sleeping beuty was born by her creator Charles Perrault. A stunning piece of architecture, Chateau d'Usse has been furnished and arranged to reflect the Sleeping beauty fairy tale. In all the rooms you will find replicas and wax figures of characters we all know - queen and king, princess and prince, witch and fairies. The governess is there, the kitchen is still full of food, the pots are on the fire oven... Only all are fast asleep for one hundred years.
When I first visited the place I was most surprised that such a remarkable building had such an unfortunate story. The castle has been demolished and rebuilt a number of times and has exchanged many owners. Initially built as a stronghold at the edge of the Chinon forest and fortified in the eleventh century by the Norman seigneur of Usse, Gueldin de Saumur, later it passed to the Comte de Blois, who rebuilt it in stone. In the fifteenth century the ruined castle of Usse was purchased by Jean V de Bueil, a captain-general of Charles VII who began rebuilding it in the 1460s. His son Antoine de Bueil, who married Jeanne de Valois, daughter of Charles VII (and of course very rich girl!), was heavily in debt and in 1485 sold the château to Jacques d’Espinay, son of a chamberlain to the Duke of Brittany and himself chamberlain to the king. The new owner built the chapel which was completed by his son Charles in 1538.
In the seventeenth century Louis I de Valentinay demolished the north range of buildings to open the spectacular view over the parterre terrace. His son-in-law - a military engineer Vauban, liked and visited Usse often. However, the castle was passed to a new owner again - Rohan. Then in 1807 Usse was purchased by the duc de Duras.
An interesting part of the chateau history is related to the secret meetings held in 1813 by a group of Bourbon loyalists who met there to discuss the possibilities of a Bourbon Restoration. Among them were men like Trémouille, duc de Fitzjames, the prince de Polignac, Ferrand, Montmorency and the duc de Rochefoucault - names we now know from the books and which carry the romantic patina of the time. Later François de Chateaubriand worked on his Mémoires d'Outre-Tombe as the guest of duchesse Claire de Duras in the castle.
Chateau d'Usse was the inspiration for many of Walt Disney's castles too (together with others of course) ans is a favorite spot for wedding and engagement photos. This is the official website: http://www.chateaudusse.fr/ which is in French but you can always use online translator like Google's. Or you may find a button for English which I may have missed. :) Alternatively, you may check for tips and hints here: http://www.france-for-visitors.com/loire/chateau-d-usse.html and here: http://www.lvo.com/GB/MAG/CHATEAUX/USSE.HTML . One thing I strongly disagree with many online reviews is the chateau is cheesy. It is not. It is romantic and beautiful, and the gardens are fantastic. Even only the view from the courtyard is sufficiently breathtaking. So, if you are in love with someone else, yourself, or the life in general - go celebrate it there! :)
* Photo courtesy of www.francethisway.com
The chateau sits on the edge of a plateau overlooking the little Nahon river. It was built by the d'Estampes family over a period of 200 years. Construction started in 1540 in place of the demolished 12th-century castle and was not completed until the 18th century when the south tower was added.
A rapid succession of owners followed including the notorious Scottish banker John Law. In 1803 Napoleon ordered his foreign minister Charles Maurice de Talleyrand to acquire the property so the emperor could invite and impress foreign dignitaries there - such is the power of Valencay! Surely, Ferdinand VII of Spain, who spent six pleasant years in Napoleonic captivity at Valencay, must have been delighted. :)
When the Talleyrands became owners and occupied the castle, the golden age for the chateau started. Twenty three communes were reportedly administrated by the ruling prince. When Talleyrand died in 1838, he was buried in a small mortuary chapel in the park. His descendants retained the ownership until 1952 when the male line ended. The estate was sold to an association of historic chateaux in 1979.
The chateau was spared during the German occupation thanks to the German roots of its owners. At the time it was the safe place for treasures from the Louvre (the Winged Victory of Samothrace and the Venus de Milo) to be kept. Among its most impressive features are the formal gardens which cover about forty hectares, not counting the area of Talleyrand's vineyards. Llamas, peacocks, and other exotic animals inhabit the park.
Those of you who remember their French or don't mind using an online translation service may want to check this website as well: http://www.visite-au-chateau.com/ . It provides great info about many castles and tourist sites. I will write more about the remaining castles in my next post and will add some practical and not so practical info about the Loire Valley as well. :)
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