Nestinari (Fire Dancing)

Nestinari are people who dance bare feet in burning coal on the night of June 3rd. The custom was originally pagan but as so many other customs and dates, with the coming of Christianity, successfully combined pagan symbolism with Christian faith. Since then Nestinari dance with an icon of St. Konstantine and St. Helena in their hands. The dancers are generational, it is very rare for an outsider to become a Nestinar. Usually they come from Nestinari families.

Nestinari was added to the UNESCO list of non material tresures of the world.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZIAcYCAWIqo - a rare sighting of a lone Nestinar in a village where today the custom doesn't exist anymore.

The day in the Bulgari village, the only place remaining where the custom is preserved as it was, starts with a ritual procession of the Nestinari taking the icon of St. Konstantine and Helena to the sacred spring nearby, ritually washing themselves in the water, then taking the icon back to the chapel in the village where they stay inside for the rest of the day with no food or water. They listen only to the beat of the ritual drums for the whole day and pray, gradually reaching a trance.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f41lmvMKtE0

When the dusk comes, the fire is started at the village square and when the darkness falls, the Nestinari enter the coal, sometimes they yell but not of pain, they experience a culmination of their long held emotions, it's ecstatic. Gradually the dance becomes more rhythmic, following the drums as the Nestinari dance, first making a cross in the coal to honour the saints, then continuing in a circle. It's very common for the crowd to fall in trance too, so if you're an emotional creature, bring a friend to keep you away from the coal! :)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d8vPckBOGb0

Seriously, I've seen it once many years ago and it's a lifetime experience. The drums themselves are so powerful and the feeling is surreal! Nestinari is an act of sacrifice, cleaning and surrendering. It's a culmination of spirit ruling over the matter as Nestinari never get hurt or burned. It's faith against all else, mind against all we see and touch, it's about the most important being known with the heart not with the brain. :)

While there are Nestinari attractions for tourists along the seaside, the place to truly understand the symbolism and the meaning of the ritual remains only Bulgari in the Strandza mountain.

Charente Maritime or how I'll enjoy the Atlantic coast

*This beautiful photo is courtesy of www.whereonearthgroup.com

As I stated before, I changed my mind and decided to ignore all wisdom around me while taking my son to the French Atlantic coast. I will be on a writing vacation which will surely influence my choice of accommodation and places to stay but you may find a thing or two for yourself. If you have a two-year old torpedo, I'll be considering this too when making my travel plan.

Here is a very nice article in Wikipedia on this French department - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charente-Maritime - one with sometimes happy, sometimes sad history. It's also home of a favorite spot of mine - La Rochelle.

Spotlights:

- Charente Maritime is south-west of the Loire Valley and close enough to become part of your trip if you go to the Loire castles first;
- located on the Atlantic coast, it has marvelous beaches, some of them almost empty in early summer or early fall (avoid July-August when it's really crowded);
- the climate is wonderful, the number of sunny days throughout the year is second only to Cote D'Azur, the average temperatures are about 20C in the summer and 5C in the winter ( note these are averages, it's not 20C in the summer, it's much warmer!);
- the local economy is mainly relying on maritime industry, tourism, cognac and pineau (more on these below);
- seafood is amazing!;
- places to see - La Rochelle, Royan, Saintes, St Jean d'Angely, Rochefort, Île d'Aix, Île de Ré and Île d'Oléron;
- La Rochelle is not an international airport but there are charters from Britain, alternatively you may use Nantes or Bordeaux.

A couple of accommodations:

Between Saintes and Cognac is the gite you see on the left - http://www.giteducalme.com/
In Gemozac - true bourgeois mansion - http://www.alwaysonvacation.co.uk/holiday-rentals/174015.html
In the La Rochelle area - http://www.alwaysonvacation.co.uk/holiday-rentals/196846.html#photo
Nice one near La Rochelle, very good for children: http://www.alwaysonvacation.co.uk/holiday-rentals/121629.html
I like this one too: http://www.alwaysonvacation.co.uk/holiday-rentals/196844.html
If you're into bold design statements: http://www.alwaysonvacation.co.uk/holiday-rentals/628913.html
This one is advertised as Royan accommodation but it seems more like Gemozac, not bad, quite simple but well maintained - http://www.alwaysonvacation.co.uk/holiday-rentals/118403.html
Between Royan and Bordeaux - http://queensville.co.uk/La-Vieille-Grange/index.htm
Same area as above - http://gitesdegarbellant.fr/one-gite-house-barn-cottage-appartements-villas-un/default.asp
Various villas for rent on Ile-de-Re - http://www.bon-sejour-en-france.com/ile-de-re/ile-de-re-accommodation.html

My personal choices:
http://www.beaugite.com/location/pays/france/dpt17/373/infos.htm - quiet, yet close enough to beaches when driving;
north of La Rochelle, closer to Nantes airport: http://www.lamaisonenpierre.com/
In Beneze, next to Royan, one of my favorite cottages in the area: http://www.beneze.net/ ;
Fabulous place with chateau and cottages on site: http://www.chateaumouillepied.fr/ - close to Saintes;
On the already famous island Ille-de-Re: http://www.bon-sejour-en-france.com/ile-de-re/270/holidays-rental-Sainte---Marie-Cottage-Sirene-.htm ;
Something special half way between Loire Valley and the Atlantic beaches: http://www.legrandsaule.co.uk/

Links to local pages:
La Rochelle - http://www.francethisway.com/places/larochelle.php , http://www.holidays-la-rochelle.co.uk/ ;
Royan - http://www.ot-royan.fr/FRAccueil.asp?lg=UK with version in English;
Saintes - http://www.francethisway.com/places/saintes.php , http://www.ville-saintes.fr/index.php?id=725 ;
St Jean d'Angely - http://www.a-taste-of-france.com/dangley.html , http://www.frenchconnections.co.uk/en/guide/city/142817-st-jean-d-angely-charente-maritime ;
Rochefort - http://www.bernezac.com/Rochefort_uk.htm , http://www.ville-rochefort.fr/accueil - in French , http://www.francethisway.com/places/rochefort.php ;
Ile d'Aix - http://www.france-for-visitors.com/atlantic/la-rochelle/ile-d-aix.html , http://www.bernezac.com/Aix_uk.htm ;
Ile de Re - http://www.bernezac.com/Re_uk.htm , http://www.holidays-iledere.co.uk/ .

What to taste:

*Photo courtesy of www.cognacnet.com

Pineau - this is an aperitif, a type of liquor wine (mistelle or vin de liqueur) made from fresh fermenting grape juice added to brandy (Cognac eau-de-vie). The fermentation stops and the result is pineau. It's delicious and a bit tricky, limit it to a small glass prior to your meal. There are white, rose and red pineau, depending on the vines used. The white is made of Ugni Blanc, Folle Blanche and Colombard, and occasionally of Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Montils. The rose and red are made of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. Have it chilled. If you're lucky to visit in a good year, you may have the rare chance to see the harvest picked manually with the proper celebrations on the vineyards. Join, don't think twice!

*Photo courtesy of www.beveragewarehouse.com


Cognac - this famous product of the French unmistakable taste for spirits is made of distilled wine. The vines used - white ugni, folle blanche and colombard - are grown specifically to produce material for distilling.

The distillation is double and after that the brandy ages in oak barrels. The oak gives away its tannin to the brandy and makes for the unique taste and the amber colour. The alcoholic strength drops in the dark cellars through evaporation. It's important and known as"the part for the angels". Once bottled, the ageing of cognac stops.


Finding a place where to taste both pineau and cognac is not difficult. In the bigger towns and villages there are stores offering the local produce where you will also be educated on the history of the drink. If you have time and are interested, definitely visit the town Cognac where you can enjoy tasting some of the world's finest cognacs and take a tour of the museum dedicated to the drink - http://www.westernfrancetouristboard.com/cognac.html . Driving between the small villages will also provide you with numerous opportunities - just watch for the signs. The cooperatives are always good spots and the prices are very reasonable. For more distinguished taste and atmosphere, opt for the mansions ruling over the vineyards - the signs on the roads are usually theirs.

More on food, drink and general area information here: http://www.discover-poitou-charentes.com/food-drink/local-delicacies.htm It's a lovely website which I wish all the best. In the next post I'm going to ask Tarot about the places I listed here. :)))

A sidenote: Just look at this bijou! It's a miniature castle next to Chinon: http://www.alwaysonvacation.co.uk/holiday-rentals/481440.html

Beautiful Romania

*Photo courtesy of www.viamigo.com

We continue our journey through the Balkans. A little reminder from the past - New York Times on Bulgaria: http://travel.nytimes.com/2006/04/30/travel/30next.html ; on Transylvania, Romania: http://travel.nytimes.com/2006/08/27/travel/27next.html?scp=7&sq=romania&st=tcse ; and on Montenegro: http://travel.nytimes.com/travel/guides/europe/montenegro/overview.html?scp=1-sub&sq=montenegro&st=tcse .

We are heading to Romania today. A country with ancient origins like most in the region, and with not so easy past, Romania has been called by many "Beautiful Romania" while Bucharest was known in the 18th-early 19th century as the "Little Wien". A lot has changed since then but many older buildings can still be seen, especially houses of wealthy manifacturers built two-three centuries ago, hiding behind rows of plane and chestnut trees, surrounded by iron gates and fences. Look carefully.

Naturally, Transylvania is the most famous child of the country thanks to its Drakula resident. But Romania has much more to offer. If you like the seaside, go to some of the resorts - Mamaia for example, http://www.mamaia.com/ . Don't expect mad luxury or fancy hotels, many of the facilities were built during the communism and carry the marks of this architectural style but the sand is soft, the shore is beautiful, and the people are warm. Other seaside resorts to check are Eforie, Neptun, Jupiter, Venus, Saturn and Mangalia. Don't forget the mineral water and mud and visit some of the numerous spas in the resorts. For more info about the seaside resorts, visit this website: http://www.infolitoral.ro/ .

Next, don't miss the fabulous castles and fortresses which best illustrate the medieval heritage of the country:

Biertan Fortified Church (part of UNESCO World Heritage) in Transylvania – Central Romania. Nearby large town: Sighisora. http://www.biertan.ro/ .

Bran CastleLocation: Transylvania – Central Romania. Nearby large town: Brasov. http://www.bran-castle.com/

Calnic Fortified Church (part of UNESCO World Heritage). Location: Transylvania – Central Romania. Nearby large town: Sibiu.

Corvinesti Castle. Location: Hunedoara – Central Romania. http://www.castelulcorvinilor.ro/ .

Fagaras Fortress. Location: Transylvania – Central Romania. Nearby large towns: Sibiu and Brasov.

Peles Castle. Location: Sinaia – Southern Romania. Nearby large towns: Brasov and Bucuresti.

There are hundreds of others, really. If you decide to visit a particular area, just send us an e-mail and we'll provide you with more names, sitghts and locations to visit.

Also, it is a must to visit the seven walled medieval towns: Bistrita, Brasov, Cluj Napoca, Medias, Sebes, Sibiu, and Sighisoara. These are fantastic locations, many films have been made there, Google them for some images and to get an idea how beautiful they are!

And for even better Romanian experience, hit the road to the Painted Monasteries, an amazing sight and treasured world heritage. The monasteries are: Arbore Monastery, Humor Monastery, Moldovita Monastery, Patrauti Church, Probota Monastery, Saint George’s Church/ Saint John the New Monastery, Sucevita Monastery, Voronet Monastery (probably the most famous one). Some of the things you should know and consider if visiting the monasteries: they are easily accessible from both Suceava - with its direct airline and rail links with Bucharest, and Iasi - offering daily flights from Vienna and Bucharest. You can probably make it in one day but better plan for at least a weeknd, so you don't have to rush. Part of the beauty of these places is their silence and lack of time sense. Enjoy it.
The town of Suceava is probably the best starting point. Iasi – the largest city in eastern Romania – is located about 120 km southwest of the monasteries and could work out too.
The easiest way to visit the Painted Monasteries is by car; a 30-minute drive (or less) separates them. Car rental is available in Suceava and Iasi. Excursions and day trips are also available from Suceava and Gura Humorului.

Some really good links for travellers

Good morning to all the world or Salut tout le monde! :)
I happened to read Independent today for some travel news and found a very helpful article which lists the 50 best travel websites in the world - great stuff! http://www.independent.co.uk/travel/news-and-advice/the-50-best-travel-websites-1644467.html?action=Popup
Then I couldn't help it but visit virtually my all times favourite Provence in her warm heart where the Luberon mountain lays. http://www.theluberon.com/ The website is a very neat and very user friendly way to get an idea about the places, attractions and lifestyle, together with some really impressive accommodation deals. Check it out if you're thinking of a true Provencal vacation.
Finally, the blog that supported the above mentioned website: http://provencediary.typepad.com/. It is idle now but many of the articles are actual and describe the Provence area in a way only an insider who lives there could do.

I don't think I have mentioned a country I've lived at for five years until now. Greece - the core of the mythological tale of ancient Europe. As a person born in the area, I have never been able to ignore the whispers from old times. I highly recommend Greece, and especially the Northern part around Kavala, to those who are seeking emerald waters and still not well known beaches in small fisherman villages. In the mornings you will get your fish straight from the boats, or you can later visit one of the small restaurants across the beach and try out one of the most delicious cousines in the world, in my humble opinion. Here is an article, bright new, on Greece islands: http://www.independent.co.uk/travel/europe/try-some-vintage-greek-islandhopping--jump-aboard-the-first-ferry-out-1752133.html

Forbes advises women how to pack for a trip

I got my regular newsletters from Forbes today and, among the others, there was this article about what and how women should pack for a weekend trip. Apparently, the author had never really tried to look stylish in a dress which she wore on the beach. It may be only me, but after a few hours on the sand, my dresses look like I took them straight from the garbage can. Any suggestions about using them with high heels and hitting the bars in the evening make me giggle. No doubt I would attract quite a bit of attention. Not the attention I'd like to though.

Then came the advice for the sunscreen. It says you should not trust only your cream/foundation SPF but use regular sunscreen under the make up. I would say: don't use foundation on the beach at all. From my experience, for some reason unknown, foundation on the beach not only makes the skin dirty and causes black spots (no matter what the manufacturer says) but also makes the tan uneven, and can grant you with spots which resemble the aging stains. Not nice at all.

Next I found this article about Provence: http://www.forbestraveler.com/provence.html . This is written by a/someone who had many bad things happening to him/her in Provence or b/has never been there.

Please, don't trust him/her. Avignon is absolutely beautiful but you have to know where to go. Reading only brochures doesn't help. One has to follow the locals and read tons of reviews to get an idea about a city/village. Aix-en-Provence is great but by no means greater than Avignon. If you go to Aix having read only tourist brochures, you can find it impersonal too. And there are so many beautiful villages in Provence which are never listed in these articles or brochures! Skip the Saint remy and Gordes, look for a detailed advice according to your own preferences! Or ask me!

Now, having said all that, what would you pack for a two week vacation to Provence? Would it be different from what you'd pack for Cote D'Azur? Italy? Spain? In other words, does the destination define what we pack?

I have built my own system for packing - I grab two things of each section of my wardrobe. It means I have two shirts, two tops, two pairs of pants, dresses, skirts, beachware, etc. The underwear, of course, is a separate category. Then I get flip-flops, day shoes, walking shoes, and two types of evening shoes. If I go to France, scarfs are my best bet! Sun hat - a stylich big one for the Cote D'Azur + big classic sun glasses. For Provence, Italy and Spain - a cute little panama hat + edgy sunglasses.

Another separate category is cosmetics - I always have tiny creams, lotions, toners in my hand bag. The rest goes to the luggage. I never leave without my usual shampoo as I find different types of water damaging my hair. I always get conditioner and one of the "stay on" conditioners for the beach. Sunscreen - I will disagree with the 30 SPF al the time. It takes away the ability of the skin to build up its own screen. I start with 25SPF for the first three-four days. Then I always switch to 20SPF. Gradually I reduce the number to 12-15SPF the last three-four days. The result is I never burn and always get an even, great looking tan.

And my baby's staff is a whole other story! :)))