Our team starts series which will feature different regions of Europe we know well. We will also point at fall activities/festivals you may enjoy. In general, September and October are great months to travel South Europe. The weather especially in September is still very warm, so don't be afraid to book a beach vacation. Locals do that and you can trust them. I don't remember the last time I've been to the beaches in August. Usually I am there in September. The water is well heated by all the hot days over the past two months, the crowds are mostly gone but there are enough tourists to create a pleasant buzz, all bars/restaurants/facilities are working, and last but not least - the deals start at this time.
We are starting with Bulgaria - a well hidden tourist destination for North American tourists but already very popular with West Europeans, many of which bought second homes there. The capital is Sofia which happens to be the home city of a member of our team, and here are her short reviews and tips for the visitors of Sofia.
If you’re planning a trip to South Europe, you must stop at Sofia and enjoy the atmosphere of a vivid capital, neither too big nor too small. Despite the fact that 1.5 million people live there, Sofia is among the European capitals that succeeded in saving their quiet Southern spirit. When I walk the streets of my old neighbourhood (Lozenetz) today, I breathe again the aroma of the lime trees in bloom, children are still playing on the street, soccer balls are flying around, birds are fed from the windows, squirrels gather food for the winter, cats are lazily stretching on the stone fences while the dogs anxiously walk around. It is the late summer and early fall when I love to go back home though. September and October are the months when a true traveller will hit the warm stone streets. The crowds are gone, the tourists are long left for home or are tanning at the Black Sea beaches. While Sofia, as most capitals, never feels really empty, the fall is a quite, comfortable time. Its bouquet of scents is the one of abundance – roasted red peppers, pumpkin with honey and walnuts, chestnuts in the open fire, lime tea and red wine.
There are four things I would say you must do in Sofia. The first one is to go and watch the Guard in front of the presidency when they change the patrol. In summer uniforms:
http://images.ibox.bg/2009/07/12/karaul/430x283.jpg ,
http://static.panoramio.com/photos/original/13717424.jpg and in winter uniforms:
http://www.dnes.bg/images/photos/0025/0000025928-article.jpgThe National Guards Unit of Bulgaria is the successor of the Personal Cavalry Convoy of Knyaz Alexander I, founded in 1879, when on July 12 the guards escorted the Bulgarian Knyaz for the first time. These guys are chosen among thousands of applicants. They must be similar in every way – height, stature, age, looks, etc. They are not allowed any piercing, dyed hair or tattoes while in service. They can not wear any rings, bracelets, watches, etc. – nothing that would make the uniform look ridiculous as it is after all a copy of a centuries old uniform. They are not allowed to move any part of their body while at post in front of the presidency. They are the elite. They are not only warriors but great performers too. Even “West Point” awarded their marching with a medal for excellence. Their uniforms are made by particular tailors, specializing in this, from the best fabrics. On their hats they wear an Alexander star and real eagle feathers. Each button on their coats is made of best quality metal, each detail is handmade for the particular man and must fit ideally. The uniforms are ironed three times a day, the boots made of first class leather must be shining anytime, the feathers are to be brushed before putting the hat on – this is only the easier part of being a guard. The most difficult is the marching and parade training. The guardians make complicated figures using their marching skills and their weapons during official parades. It takes months of everyday practice to polish these performances. They also have a great orchestra which supports their marching performances.This year they celebrated 130 years since the guardians army was founded. We all love them and are proud of them, and wish them many more years of admiration from the public.
The second thing I recommend is the National Historical Museum in Boyana – a former village and present suburb of the growing city. Going there will not only allow you to see some of the most remarkable treasures of the Ancient Greek and Thracians but will also give you the opportunity to walk in Vitosha mountain – a national park too and a former volcano. The museum was moved from downtown in order to grant visitors with more space and beautiful natural surroundings. There are manicured and landscaped gardens around too as well as cafe, restaurant, souvenirs shop, etc. Here is the official website of the museum in English:
http://www.historymuseum.org/?lang_id=1&PHPSESSID=c28c17b60d50b90486c5578c2a13157aa.
While in Boyana, absolutely don't miss the Boyana church - part of the UNESCO world heritage. In the church you will have the chance to see the portrait of one of the most beautiful women in Europe at the time - the Bulgarian Tarnovo queen Desislava. Tarnovo was the former capital of Bulgaria. The portrait was made by a team of unknown artists but they remained in the history as the Boyana Master. Here is the church website:
http://www.boyanachurch.org/indexen.htmThird, and one of my most favourite, visit the Alexander Nevski cathedral – an amazing church with beautiful paintings and painted glass works, and with some of the most fabulous saints icon in the Orthodox world. Often, you will have the opportunity to see there an ancient icon displayed for religious people to pray to it. Such icons rarely leave the monasteries where they are usually kept but when they do, they always are displayed at the cathedral in Sofia for at least two days. Here is the cathedral in all its glory -one of the most photographed objects in Southern Europe:
http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/3664/800pxalexandernevskicatzs5.jpg . Also, on this photo:
http://www.eko.bg/uploads/Sofia_AN.jpg you can see that the cathedral is surrounded by the famous “yellow paved” part of Sofia. These paves have been there for centuries, they are crazy expensive but we all are glad to pay for replacement with new yellow paved stones and save this part of old Sofia as it has always been.
And last but not least, don’t miss the traditional (and I emphasize that!) Bulgarian cuisine. While you can certainly go to McDonalds, KFC, or any pizza shop on the street for many days, save one evening and enjoy supper as all South Europeans do – long and abundant. There are not that many proven good traditional restaurants in Sofia as the true Bulgarian cuisine requires longer preparation of the meals and fresh produce. One of the restaurants I recommend is “Murafeti” :
http://murafeti.com/galeria.htm The website is naturally in Bulgarian but if anyone needs contact info, click on the last button or give me a shout and I’ll translate. The restaurant has live music too -authentic Bulgarian folklore which made the country worldwide known – think of movies like “Arizona Dream” or the fact that Bulgarian folklore song flies in the space aboard NASA ship to represent the Earth. Another great one (and among the oldest):
http://www.vodenitzata.com/home_en.html And one more:
http://www.kashtite.com/index_en.htmlMy advice on the menu – there are a few things you should not miss. One is the homemade fresh baked traditional Bulgarian bread (you may see pictures on the websites of the restaurants). Second, the traditional cold soup “Tarator” recipe for which I have given in this blog and which is made of natural Bulgarian yogurt (did you know that Bulgaria is indeed the country where yogurt was invented? That’s why the bacteria that makes the milk sour is called Bulgaricus). Third, the famous bean soup with mint – definitely go for it, it is absolutely fantastic! Fourth, the highly praised and much loved “Shopska Salad” – tomatoes, cucumbers, green and red bell peppers, onion, fresh parsley, olive oil and first class Bulgarian cow cheese on the top. For the main dish, choose between meat prepared on “sach” – a ceramic thick plate placed directly on the fire (be careful as it will be brought to you still cooking which is the entertaining part); vegetarian dishes like zucchini in yogurt sauce or eggplants in tomato sauce; “gjuvedze” – eggs, cheese and fresh vegetables prepared in the oven in a small individual ceramic pot, to mention just a few. For dessert, try the traditional (and healthy) yogurt based options – with wild berries, with fresh fruits and honey, or with honey and cheese. In the fall, don’t miss the stuffed pumpkin!
Some tips: Bulgarians, like many Europeans, are not going to ask you how you are immediately - they are not rude, just reserved a bit. Smiling at everyone is not common, save it for your friends. If you need any kind of help, rely on them, they will do what they can. Don't go to night clubs without the advise of a local. Avoid districts at the west and north ends of the town, keep close to downtown, south and east are save and wealthy. Be careful with thieves, especially in the crowded streets and public transportation. Otherwise, use the public transport - it is good, the subway is a great deal, clean and neat. Bulgaria is still very cheap for most foreigners - a taxi from the airport to downtown will cost you about 15-20 dollars and it's a long way. A three course meal can be found at 10 dollars. Alcohol is cheap too - do go to the store and get some Bulgarian wine, many of them are award winners and well known. If you have more questions or comments, please post them.
And welcome, we love guests! In any case, I strongly advise everyone to go to the countryside too – in any country that is where the true atmosphere is to be felt. We will continue the Featuring the Balkans series with some fall celebrations in the countryside you may want to see/attend.
*Photo courtesy of www.viamigo.com
